The Champagne Society – February 2018 Selection: Champagne Jacquesson

Champagne Jacquesson “Cuvée 740” (Extra Brut)

Price for The Champagne Society members: $67 (regular price $79)

We take pride in the diversity of the wines that we offer to The Champagne Society, so it is a matter of no small consequence that we decided to revisit ChampagneJacquesson’s 700 series with the latest release.

Although technically a Champagne house, brothers Laurent and Jean-Hervé Chiquet operate Champagne Jacquesson much like a grower operation. Besides their own organic and sustainably farmed 69 acres of vineyard (severely pruned for low yields), they work closely with their neighbors to supplement from an additional 19 acres, all in Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. What sets them apart is their goal of producing a wine that expresses the greatness of their vineyard parcels rather than merely maintain a “house style”. Indeed, the 700 series of Jacquesson wines are created to showcase the character of the base vintage and the addition of reserve wines is designed to reinforce the complexity of the base wine. Purely on the refinement of its current cuvées, Jacquesson can easily be ranked among Champagne‘s top six producers.

According to the Chiquet’s, “Cuvée 740” is quite possibly the finest of the 700 series yet to be produced. The primary portion of the blend is from the 2012 Vintage with fruit harvested in the Grands Crus of Aÿ & Avize, and the Premiers Crus of Dizy, Hautvillers and Oiry. The Cuvée is completed with several reserve wines from previous 700 Cuvées to make up only about 20% of the blend.

A long and frigid winter coupled with a spring and early summer that were exceedingly wet, the 2012 vintage started out quite challenging. Fortunately, a superb end to the growing season produced a small crop of remarkable quality for this esteemed house. The result is a Champagne with a tremendous amount of energy and sap. Aromatics of lemon verbena, crisp green apple, and a baguette just out of the oven overlay a palate that is simultaneously bracing and full with an interminable mineral finish. “Cuvée 740” is a Champagne with a rock solid core that will provide a great few glasses of wine from now until the mid-21st Century.

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Posted on 2018.02.01 in France, The Champagne Society, Champagne  |  Read more...

Saturday Sips: New-School Rioja – the Single Vineyard Wines of Artuke

Modern Rioja’s storied history began in the mid-1800s when local winemakers adopted the methods of Bordeaux and began aging their wines in wooden casks. Since then, the region has tended to spotlight the amount of time the wine spent in oak barrels, effectively putting a supporting actor in the leading role. But as Nobel Prize winning poet Bob Dylan often says, the times they are a-changin’. In June of 2017 The Consejo Regulador in Rioja announced the introduction of a “Singular Vineyard” designation to be known as Viñedos Singulares. Soon the quality of Rioja wine can be linked to a specific terroir.

In practice, these “Singular Vineyards” are nothing new for brothers Arturo and Kike de Miguel Blanco, third generation viticulturalists that produce wine for Artuke Bodegas y Viñedos. These two young men have completely refocused the family winery to cultivate small vineyard plots in and around their village of Abalos in the high elevation foothills of the Cantabrian Mountains. Yet they currently have no plans to adopt the new labeling to their own wines, believing that the laws were thrown together too hastily, without enough study of the soils and history of the land.

Although the brothers are already working somewhat outside the established regulations of Rioja, their wines clearly reveal the characteristics of the Alavesa sub-zone, the northernmost and smallest of the three Rioja sub-zones, where the cooling influence of the Atlantic Ocean meets the warmer interior. This unique climate has the effect of ripening Tempranillo grapes with slightly thinner skins, yielding wines with superb fruit and freshness.

“Finca de los Locos” (Rioja, 2015)
Special 6-Pack Price: $194 (~$32/bottle)

Arturo and Kike’s grandfather was regarded as crazy (loco) for purchasing this single vineyard located on a high terrace around 1,600 feet in elevation overlooking the Ebro river in Baños de Ebro. The plot consists of nearly 40-year-old vines growing in a sandy, gritty soil over a chalky limestone subsoil. A blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Graciano that is aged for 13 months in both 500 and 3500 liter French oak barrels, this wine shows it’s Atlantic climate mainly on the palate as ripe red fruit immediately turns crunchy to lead into a lengthy mineral finish. Aromatically complex, a noseful is rewarded with plums, minty herbs, dark chocolate, baked earth, and cherry blossoms. You could do worse things than pairing “Finca de los Locos” with some fatty red lamb chops.

“La Condenada” (Rioja, 2015)
Special 6-Pack Price: $405 (~$67/bottle) SOLD OUT

From a single plot of sandy soil with a substrata of sandstone planted in 1920. The Blanco family purchased this nearly abandoned vineyard in 2012 and began to tend the majority of Tempranillo along with around 20% of other grapes, both red and white, including Graciano and Calagrano. All grapes are harvested and fermented together, and then matured in a 600-liter oak barrel for 14 months. The result is a wine that is concentrated and silky and brimming with a potpourri of heady aromatics.

More wines from Artuke Bodegas y Viñedos

“Artuke” (Rioja, 2016)
Special 6-Pack Price: $86 (~$14/bottle) SOLD OUT

“Artuke” is made with the carbonic maceration method, a wine-making technique used to enhance aromatics and produce light, fresh, fruity wines preferred by Basques in the northern sub-zone of Alavesa. It is a blend of mainly Tempranillo grapes, fermented and aged in cement and stainless steel. Candied red berries follow behind a burst of violets and cinnamon on the nose. There is minimal tannic structure which allows this red wine to take a relatively deep chill and also makes it quite a versatile pairing with food: tuna, pretty much anything made with zucchini, fried chicken, gooey cheese sandwiches, pizza, etc…

“Pies Negros” (Rioja, 2015)
Special 6-Pack Price: $130 (~$22/bottle)

A blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano from vines as old as 95 years, Pies Negros means Black Feet, a reference to the archaic method of crushing the grapes using one’s feet – a technique that the brothers are determined to use to this day, as they believe the gentle crushing helps to maintain the purity of the fruit. After fermentation, the wine is aged for 14 months in a combination of new and older 225 liter oak barrels, resulting in a wine that’s full of mature, dark red fruits and a touch of spice with a firm finish.

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Posted on 2018.01.31 in Saturday Sips Wines, Spain DO, Rioja DOC  |  Read more...

A “Marriage” of Great Terroirs in the South of France

Domaine d’Aupilhac “La Boda” (Montpeyroux Languedoc 2014)
Special Price: $243/6-pack (~$41/bottle)

The 44 acre lieu-dit known as Aupilhac is a renowned, fully biodynamic certified property located in the enclave of Montpeyroux just across the river Hérault from Daumas Gassac and Grange des Pères. Though five generations have farmed these choice vineyards, it was Sylvain Fadat that brought the estate its acclaim. Not one to shy away from hard work, Sylvain cultivates vines on steep, extremely rocky terrain, and has even terraced much of the land himself – an enormous financial investment and back-breaking work but necessary in this case to reveal a great terroir.

Sylvain believes that effort in the vineyard has the most influence on the quality of his wine. He coaxes old vines to root deep into soils of limestone, clay, scree, and blue marl. The grapes are harvested by hand and only indigenous yeasts are used. The wines are bottled unfiltered in accordance with the lunar cycle and optimal atmospheric pressure. It’s the meticulous attention to each and every one of the small details that result in wines of great expression.

The cuvée “La Boda” gets its name from the Spanish word for marriage. The blend is a union of terroirs: 45% Syrah comes from the north-west facing vineyard of “Les Cocalières” that is situated at an altitude of some 1,150 feet and rich in prehistoric oyster fossil deposits, which lend an incredible length and minerality to the wine. The remaining 45% Mourvèdre and 10% Carignan come from the Aupilhac vineyards on south-west facing hillside terraces.

Long maceration with regular pump-overs and aging for 24 months in 300-liter barrels helps create this deep, rich, and vibrant wine. It practically fills the room with its fragrant notes of ripe blueberries and blackberries, garden herbs and crushed stone. A sip is simultaneously ripe and electric, filled with pure fruit balanced by a marathon finish. While the wine has the structure to develop in the cellar it is an absolute stunning drink right now.

More wines from Domaine d’Aupilhac

Domaine d’Aupilhac “Lou Maset” (Coteaux du Languedoc 2016) Red
Special Price: $97/6-pack (~$16/bottle)

It stands to reason that some of the best inexpensive wines are the ones made by winemakers who know how to make great wines. With all the characteristics of a quality Languedoc wine “Lou Maset” is made in a style that emphasizes its fresh fruit. It’s an ideal bottle for those busy weeknights when dinner consists of a quick cheese platter or even pizza. A blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 10% Mourvèdre, and 10% Carignan, vinification is done traditionally in stainless steel vats and the wine is aged a further six months in neutral barrels.

Domaine d’Aupilhac “Le Carignan” (Mont Baudile IGP 2015) Red
Special Price: $200/6-pack (~$33/bottle)

Formerly the most widely planted grape in France, and quite often overproduced, Carignan doesn’t have the best reputation. Generally, it’s high levels of tannins and acidity work best as a small proportion of a blend. But gifted vigneron like Sylvain Fadat know that very old Carignan vines that are managed artfully are capable of producing the concentrated ripe fruit needed for a wine of great significance. From the beginning, Sylvain has tirelessly defended Carignan as the “origin, history, and essence of the region.” So much so that he has declassified “Le Carignan” from the Languedoc Montpeyroux appellation (which requires no grape variety be more than 70% of a blend) to the more general Mont Baudile IGP, just so that he could bottle this superb fruit on its own.

The result is a wine of concentrated dark fruit that’s never heavy on the palate, with ripe tannins on the finish and a final twist of freshness at the close. Above the elegant textures are a grocery basket of sumptuous aromatics: blueberry and red currants, moist earth, and the Languedoc shrubland (garrigue) that comes across as just the slightest hint of rosemary. While drinking beautifully now, this is a wine of longevity – reports have the 1989 vintage (Sylvain’s first) still drinking nicely.

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Posted on 2018.01.24 in Saturday Sips Wines, France, Languedoc-Roussillon  |  Read more...

Value Barolo from a Respected Traditionalist in Top Cru

Guido Porro “Vigna Lazzairasco” (Barolo 2013)
Special 6-pack price: $243 (~$41/bottle)

Guido Porro is the fourth generation at an estate that has always been passed from father to son. He holds close to 20 acres on the western slopes of the Barolo commune Serralunga d’Alba and is a man that sees no need for fanfares to establish his name as one of Langhe’s most respected vignerons. Other than the addition of modern equipment very little has changed at the estate through the generations, Guido continues to work just as his predecessors did by focusing on the quality of the fruit in the vineyard, meticulous handling of the fruit from vine to cellar, and traditional winemaking techniques through the use of indigenous yeast and large Slavonian oak barrels for aging.

The limestone-heavy soils of Serralunga d’Alba have long been known to produce some of the regions most expressive, rich, and concentrated Barolo wines. Guido Porro’s vineyards are located here on the south-southwest facing slopes of the Lazzarito cru that provide the vines full sun exposure while protecting them from wind.

The cuvée “Lazzairasco” is named after the specific sub-zone of Lazzarito that contain the estates oldest vines (50 years) and is located on the lower slopes that receive more heat and therefore tend to produce some of the most powerful wines of the cru. Fermentation is completed in glass-lined concrete vats and then the wine rests for three years in 15 to 25 hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels. The result is classic Barolo, exuding heady aromatics of dark cherry, rose, licorice, and autumn leaf. A sip fills the mouth with vibrant fruit concentration while maintaining the licorice vibe and a lengthy mineral and cherry pit finish that makes you wonder how Guido Porro is able to fit so much wine in a bottle. A little over 800 cases are produced.

Barolo “Lazzairasco” is regularly awarded “Tre Bicchieri” — the top rating from Gambero Rosso, Italy’s most respected wine guide. 2013 is the most recent vintage to receive this highest honor. Barolo at both this quality level and relative low price is a rare beast indeed.

Everyday wines from Guido Porro

All prices based on the purchase of six or more bottles, mix & match.
~$23 “Camilu” (Langhe Nebbiolo 2016) SOLD OUT

The cuvée “Camilu” is a declassified Barolo from a 1.5 acre plot of vines in Serralunga d’Alba with an average age of 10 years. Fermentation is traditional in glass-lined concrete vats with the wine in contact with the skins for 15-20 days. Aging is done for six months in large 25 hectoliter wooden casks.

~$17 “Vigna l’Pari” (Dolcetto d’Alba 2016) SOLD OUT

100% Dolcetto from a close to four acre plot with an average age of 30 years. Fermentation is traditional in glass-lined concrete vats with the wine in contact with the skins for 7-8 days. Aging is done in steel vats.

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Posted on 2018.01.17 in Saturday Sips Wines, Piedmont, Italy  |  Read more...

Charming, World-Class Mediterranean Red Wines from a Top Producer in Fitou

Fitou is the very first granted appellation in the southern French region of Languedoc. It consists of two small enclaves within Corbières: Fitou Maritime, a clay-limestone band around the saltwater lagoons on the coast, and Fitou Montagneux, a patch of mountainous schist fifteen miles inland. It’s in the latter terrain, near the tiny village of Paziols, where Jérôme and Sabine Bertrand have been steadily improving the reputation of Fitou through the excellence of their own wines.

The domaine’s history can be traced back over a century when Jérôme’s great-grandfather, Jean Sirven, won plaudits for his wines at the 1900 World’s Fair in Paris. But the modern era for Bertrand-Bergé started in 1993, when the couple took the winemaking back into their own hands after a few decades of supplying grapes to the local co-operative.

Today, the estate is comprised of many old-vine parcels that cover an area of 84 acres dotted around the hilly countryside of Paziols, the air fragrant with the scent of wild juniper, thyme, rosemary and lavender of the local garrigue shrubland. The estate is cultivated entirely using organic techniques. Of the wide range of soils that are found in the region, the pudding stones found around Paziols contribute much to the high quality of the wines of Bertrand-Bergé by retaining daytime heat. But of course it’s the tireless effort of Jérôme Bertrand that can translate the unique charm of this place into world-class wines.

All prices based on the purchase of six or more bottles, mix & match.

~$21 “Origines” (Fitou 2016)
The Bertrand’s offer the affordable cuvée “Origines” as a starting point to enjoying the terroir of Fitou. A blend of 60% Carignan and 40% Grenache aged for 18 months in concrete, “Origines” delivers juicy ripe black fruits accented by clean earth.

~$37 “La Boulière” (Fitou 2015) 
A deep, sappy blend of 50% Mourvèdre, 25% Carignan and 25% Grenache aged for 18 months in oak barrels. A grocery cart of aromatics like black raspberry, blueberry, smoked meat and earthy herbs precede a full-bodied, layered and elegant palate balanced by a muscular underlying structure. This wine should drink well over the course of a decade.

~$71 “Cuvée Jean Sirven” (Fitou 2013) 
~$71 “Cuvée Jean Sirven” (Fitou 2015) 
Extremely low yields produce the estate’s crown jewel named after Jérôme’s great-grandfather. A blend of 45% Carignan, 45% Syrah and 10% Grenache aged for 18-20 months in new French oak barrels results in a heady and concentrated wine loaded with fruit and capable of developing for over a decade if you can keep it out of your glass now.

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Posted on 2018.01.11 in Saturday Sips Wines, France, Languedoc-Roussillon  |  Read more...

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