Fresh & Generous Red from Languedoc’s Larzac Plateau

Jean-Baptiste Granier “Les Vignes Oubliées” (Terrasses du Larzac, 2014)
Price: $26/bottle

Winemaker Jean-Baptiste Granier grew up in a family of vignerons that had always respected nature and minimal intervention in the vineyards and cellars. So it was more than good fortune when Jean-Baptiste received an internship with Olivier Jullien as part of his viticulture-enology degree. Olivier Jullien, of Mas Jullien, is the leading producer in the region. He was a pioneer, recognizing the potential of Terrasses du Larzac to produce wines of distinction. Indeed, it was Olivier who initiated the whole “Les Vignes Oubliées” project and ensured its success before completely handing the reigns to Jean-Baptiste after the 2011 vintage.

The two often drove through the tiny village of Saint Privat and admired the magnificent bunches of grapes they saw growing there. After testing with trial cuvées over two vintages to ensure the quality of the fruit was as good as suspected, they convinced four vignerons, farming a total of 15 acres of vines with an average vine age of 40 years, to leave the cooperative that had been buying their fruit and work directly with Jean-Baptiste.

The only significant change Jean-Baptiste asked the vignerons to make was a shift towards organic agriculture. Even though the vines had never been subjected to heavy-handed chemical treatment Jean-Baptiste demanded the cultivation be sustainable for the earth and the vineyard workers.

Terrasses du Larzac recently earned its own appellation status as a Languedoc Cru. Saint Privat is at the heart of the Terrasses du Larzac terroir, benefiting both from the warmth of the Mediterranean and the coolness of the Larzac Plateau at an elevation of up to 1500 feet. The shale subsoil there creates fresh yet delicate wines with silky tannins and the earthy garrigue aromas characteristic of the Languedoc.

2014 “Les Vignes Oubliées” is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 20% Carignan. The fruit is hand harvested, with sorting done in the vineyards and again in the cellar. Indigenous yeasts are used for fermentation and the wine is aged for 12 months in demi-muids and barriques (10% new). The result is a wine that is generous with fruit yet exquisitely detailed in its seamless textures. Aromatics abound with juicy red fruits and assorted herbs. This will be a superb red wine to welcome the warmer weather that we’ve all been waiting for. Total production is 1900 cases.

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Posted on 2016.04.13 in France, Saturday Sips Wines, Languedoc-Roussillon  |  Read more...

Last of the 2012 Vintage, Pure Chambolle-Musigny to Drink or Hold

Domaine Bertagna Chambolle-Musigny “Le Village” 2012
$80/bottle

Domaine Bertagna Chambolle-Musigny “Le Village” is from a one acre parcel of 87 year old vines that overlooks houses in the village of Chambolle-Musigny, just above several Premier Cru sites. The soil is shallow red calcareous clay with significant minerals, leading to rocky limestone subsoil underneath. After strict pruning and a mid-season green harvest to control yields, the grapes are hand-picked and then hand-sorted at the vineyard and the winery. Natural yeast fermentation ensues before aging in 30% new French oak barrels for 16 to 18 months.

The result is a wine of deep red fruit and complex aromatics with the elegant yet sinewy structure of a ballet dancer. Bertagna’s can be some of Burgundy’s most compelling wines, capable of aging gracefully for decades. Only 150 cases of Chambolle-Musigny “Le Village” are produced and we managed to acquire almost 5% of that.

Domaine Bertagna produces wines from 18 appellations spread over 51 acres across the Burgundy region, with choice holdings in 12 diverse Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards in the Côte-d’Or. With a history dating back to the 13th century, Domain Bertagna’s cellars and vineyards are now under the direction of Eva Reh-Siddle. This is a family with wine in their blood. Eva’s sister Annegret runs the world-famous Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt estate in Germany’s Mosel region.

As with all top winemakers, Eva understands that wine is made in the vineyard and she is laser-focused on producing the purest and highest quality of fruit. The vines are worked with utmost respect for the environment and the preservation of terroir. Only natural products are used to control any fungus or disease.

2012 has turned out to be quite a good vintage in the Côtes de Nuits. Many are referring to it as “classic” and regard the potential of these wines to be as good as, perhaps superior, to anything recent, including 2005, 2009, and 2010. The simple reason is that from mid-July onwards the weather was warm, dry, and extremely sunny. While the summer heat cooled off somewhat as the harvest approached it remained mostly dry, and even a bit chilly at night, which helped to preserve the acidity of the grapes.

More 2012 from Domaine Bertagna

Vosne-Romanée “Les Beaux Monts” (Premier Cru, 2012)
$126/bottle

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Posted on 2016.04.06 in France, Saturday Sips Wines, Burgundy  |  Read more...

The Champagne Society – April 2016 Selection: Champagne Eric Rodez

Champagne Eric Rodez “Millesime 2007” (Ambonnay, Grand Cru)

Eighth generation vigneron Eric Rodez cultivates around 40 acres of vineyards, all in the Grand Cru of Ambonnay. Due its chalk, limestone and clay subsoil, favorable altitudes (400ft average), and south/southeast-facing slopes which decrease risk to frost exposure, this is a prime site for Pinot Noir. Yet one of the first surprises at Champagne Rodez is that a large proportion of his plantings are actually Chardonnay, which makes for broader potential during blending and also adds freshness and finesse to the wines.

Pragmatism rules in these vineyards at the extreme edge of the production range, so aspects of organic and biodynamic cultivation are used alongside the more conventional lutte raisonée (reasoned fight), all with the aim of producing the best fruit possible given the challenges of the growing year. Eric’s aim to be as eco-friendly as possible was recognized by his receipt of the Haute Valeur Environnmentale certification in 2012. The certification covers organic farming, biodiversity and water management.

In addition to his experience in the family business, Eric has also worked as oenologist at the the venerable Champagne house of Krug, where he developed his passion for blending small parcels and multi-vintages, as well as using oak barrels. About 70% of Rodez Champagne is fermented and aged in oak.

2007 was a year of wildly fluctuating weather patterns. Early flowering led to a wet and chilly end of summer that seemed to be heading toward disaster. Fortunately, a north wind blew in to dry the vineyards and the sun returned to finish ripening the grapes. Because of these unusual climatic conditions generally only the best growers, who made made the most vigorous vineyard selections, were able to release vintage cuvées.

Champagne Eric Rodez “Millesime 2007” illustrates the talent and effort of a top grower. It’s a blend of nearly equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay entirely from the 2007 harvest. The majority of the wine was fermented and aged in oak. It spent seven years on the lees developing complexity before disgorgement in January of 2015. Massive aromas of orchard fruits, fresh cut hay, brioche, and toast precede a mouthful of richness without weight. While you can hold onto this bottle for years to come there’s no reason not to drink it now.

New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov thinks Champagne Rodez is worth talking about. Check out his recent piece on Champagnes You’ve Never Heard Of.

Now you’ve heard.

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Posted on 2016.04.03 in France, The Champagne Society, Champagne  |  Read more...

Everyday Red Southern Rhône from Venerable Châteauneuf-du-Pape Producer

Vignobles Brunier “Mégaphone” (Ventoux, 2014)
$17/bottle

Life would be good if Châteauneuf-du-Pape was one of your everyday red wines. But if that’s not in the budget, the next best thing is an inexpensive yet superb Southern Rhône red blend from celebrated Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers.

Brothers and fourth generation winemakers Frédéric and Daniel Brunier are rightfully well-known for Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe – their world-class wine from Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s La Crau plateau. Year after year, respected French wine guides like La Revue du Vin de France and Bettane & Desseauve give Vieux Télégraphe the highest of ratings. American wine pundits like them, too.

Recently, the brothers applied their intricate knowledge of the various terroirs of the southern Rhône by expanding into Ventoux. The Brunier’s five acres of Ventoux vineyards are situated in the commune of Saint-Hippolyte-le-Graveyron, on the southern slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail. The vines are about 25 years old, on average. All the fruit is harvested by hand, de-stemmed, and then pressed gently by pneumatic press. Fermentation occurs in temperature-controlled cement tanks and then the wine is transferred to large foudres to age another 10 months.

The result is a wine that is fresh, rich in fruit, and solidly representative of their Ventoux terroir. A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, there is plenty of juicy blackberry and strawberry aromatics that precede notes of spice, herbs and spring flowers in this medium-bodied, easy-drinking wine. This is a bottle to stock up on for the warmer months and serve with the slightest chill. If you drink it on a sun-drenched patio you just might be momentarily transported to a bistro on the cobblestone streets of Avignon.

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Posted on 2016.04.02 in France, Saturday Sips Wines, Southern Rhone  |  Read more...

Stunning Amarone from a New Cult Favorite Producer

Lorenzo Begali “Monte Ca’ Bianca” (Amarone della Valpolicella, 2010)
$89/bottle

Although Lorenzo Begali looks like he might have just stepped out of a Spaghetti Western his stardom is in winemaking, not cinema. Since 1986, he and his wife Adriana (and more recently children Giordano and Tiliana) have been producing wines from the 25 acres of Veneto vineyards that have been owned and worked by his family for the past 100 years.

All of the Begali family wines are extraordinary but the “Monte Ca’ Bianca” Amarone is something truly special. Most all Amarone aficionados are familiar with the names Dal Forno and Quintarelli and their bottles that sell for $300-$400. The Begali name is now being recognized as a producer making the most exciting wines in the region today, perhaps even outshining these other cult producers, and without the huge price tag…yet.

“Monte Ca’ Bianca” is a blend of 40% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, and 5% Oseleta from a single vineyard on the east-facing Castelrotto hill between the city of Verona and Lake Garda. Following a late September to October harvest, where the fruit is sorted both in the vineyards and cellar, the grapes are left to dry in ventilated lofts for 3 months. The concentrated grapes are then pressed and transferred into stainless steel tanks for fermentation and then large oak casks where the wine ages for four years. The wine is then bottled and allowed to age another whole year before release into the market.

The result is an Amarone with exquisite concentration and purity, redolent of dark fruits, cola, and exotic wood spice. Far from being saccharine, there is an earthy vibe throughout with a long, supple finish. It’s a genuinely balanced richness. Quite often wines like this that are capable of developing in the cellar are not crowd-pleasers in their youth. Somehow Lorenzo finds the magic that makes “Monte Ca’ Bianca” a pleasure to drink for years and years after release.

Italy’s most respected wine publication, Gambero Rosso, has given “Monte Ca’ Bianca” it’s highest possible rating of “Tre Bicchieri” in almost every vintage since 1997, including the latest release of 2010. If you’ve never seen this wine it’s because only 200 cases are produced annually. Elie Wine Co. committed to about eight percent of that. Even though this is not an inexpensive wine, we know value when we taste it.

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Posted on 2016.03.23 in Saturday Sips Wines, Italy, Veneto  |  Read more...

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