There’s no rest for the weary, but if Mom is enjoying a respite on Mothers’ Day weekend, include a stop at Elie’s where, on Saturday, May 10, we will be pouring samples from the below selection of Loire Valley rosés, emphasizing the bright and refreshing pinks of Sancerre. Come as you are during our business hours.
Elie
Feel free to send Mom her customary dozen roses on Mothers’ Day, but consider a half dozen Sancerre rosés as a delightful lagniappe. This week we’ll think pink with six rosé offerings from some top producers in Sancerre, mostly built upon Pinot Noir, where this complex and energized style encapsulates the promise of the summer to come. These are textbook example of finely wrought Sancerre rosés that will, like Mom, age effortlessly for years.
Tastes in wine run hot and cold and so do the climates that produce them. Nearly every commercial vine on earth is grown between 30° – 50° latitude (both north and south), but that range offers an almost endless array of rainfall patterns, cloud covers and wind configurations and such a wide spectrum of environments and that generalization seems pointless.
And yet, anyone qualified to blind taste with authority should be able to tell you very quickly whether the wine comes from cool or warm region simply by gauging the character of the fruit.
In cool climates, where budding occurs late and frosts arrive early, even grapes harvested at optimal ripeness tend to produce lighter, more acidic wines with flavor profiles that lean toward savory herbs and acidic fruits like cranberries and tart cherries. In fact, you’ll find these types of descriptors used for wines made from any number of varieties that have adapted to cooler climates. In contrast, warm weather and extended growing seasons in the world’s southerly vineyards results in jammier, richer wines with less acidity and darker fruit flavors (blackberry and plum), often underscored with exotic aromatics like coffee and chocolate.
Nowhere is this climate divide more obvious than in France, and no style of wine demonstrates it better than French rosé, a wine with many guises. A versatile food wine and a cherished part of French viticulture, crisp, cheerful rosé is produced both in France’s frosty north and cool Continental interior and sultry Mediterranean south with characteristically different, yet equally spectacular results.
For winemakers, the rain gods are fickle in the best of decades, but in the Loire, the back-to-back vintages of 2023 and 2024 have sorely tested any sense of climatic deism. 2023 could not decide between torrential rain and prolonged heatwaves—conditions under which mildew and acid rot thrive. Although vineyards dodged the frost bullet and bud break sported a large volume of potential grapes, a wet June kicked off the mildew pressure and it was essential for growers to spray against it regularly and at exactly the right moment. Jérôme Billard, winemaker at Domaine de la Noblaie, said, “It is easy to see who was successful at containing the mildew and who wasn’t. There are parcels where there are virtually no leaves left, making it very difficult for the grapes to ripen properly.”
Rather than slinking back with apologies, 2024 decided to double-down on the onslaught by delivering unprecedented levels of precipitation along with hail, frost and rot. Rainfall—twice the annual average—broke records. Adding insult to inundation, temperatures were generally below normal, delaying ripening until mid-September and pushing the harvest back.
Both vintages were dependent on tenacity and commitment in the vineyard. According to the promotional body Centre-Loire Wines, “The quality of these wines relied heavily on the vigilance and adaptability of growers. With support from SICAVAC, the Centre-Loire winegrowers showcased their expertise and determination, turning a year of climatic adversity into a vintage that reflects their skill-sets.”
And yet, despite these natural challenges, many growers remain happy with the vibrant levels of acidity in their wines, although alcohol levels are noticeably lower compared to recent vintages.
The steeps slopes of Bué are also home to winemakers Teddy and Cyprien Crochet, who took over from their father Dominique after his untimely passing. Although Teddy spent time as a rugby player, he remains true to his roots, now five generations deep. Cyprien raves about the holdings in Chêne Marchand, Grand Chemarin, Champ Chêne and the steepest vineyards in the La Côte de Bué: “We like to think that the Crochet name is synonymous with the town of Bué,” Cyprien says, “… one of the three greatest villages in Sancerre. We’re equally proud to be producing Sancerre in a winery our father started in a garage—we are true garagistes making ‘vins de garage.’”
Teddy and Cyprien Crochet, Domaine Dominique et Janine Crochet
Established in 1992, Dominique and Janine began with a handful of perfectly situated hillside acres. Today, the domain extends to nearly forty acres hosting more than forty tiny parcels. Grapes are hand-harvested—a Bué necessity, given the steep hillsides—and indigenous yeast is preferred, especially for the reds, which are treated to light clay filtration before bottling.
1 Domaine Dominique et Janine Crochet, 2024 Sancerre Rosé ($29)
Drawn from the high elevations of the Crochet’s Pinot Noir vines in the village of Bué, where conditions are optimal for slow ripening and the preservation of natural acidity, assuring energy and precision. The wine shows notes of cherry and wild strawberry, but with a stoney backbone and orange zest on the finish.
Gérard Morin took over the family’s vineyards about twenty years ago and, while making some of the most striking wines in Sancerre, he prepared his son Pierre to run the show. Pierre, who once worked the vineyards of Adelaide Hills, saw little in Australia worth emulating in Sancerre. He now helms the estate with an eye toward maintaining a house style typical of Bué (about a mile and a half from the village of Sancerre): rich, aromatic whites and some particularly deep reds that are best matched, according to Pierre, to “an andouillette cooked in the vineyard on vine prunings, ideally for breakfast.”
Gérard Morin, Domaine Pierre Morin
The Morin’s vines are planted on a steep hard-Calcaire amphitheater surrounding the commune of Bué and consist of 17 acres of Sauvignon Blanc and five of Pinot Noir. Yields are held low through spring de-budding (one of Pierre’s few, but significant changes) and all harvesting is done by hand. Fermentation is done by parcel in an air-conditioned chai, in enameled steel vats, with the finished wines left alone on their lees for as long as possible.
2 Domaine Pierre Morin, 2024 Sancerre – Bué ‘Les Rimbardes’ Rosé ($31)
Les Rimbardes is situated to the east of Bué, nearly to the border of Sancerre. Soils here are heavy with clay, giving the wines more heft. This fruit-forward rosé offers grapefruit, strawberry, Meyer lemon, and tangerine zest aromas intertwined with rhubarb, lemon and hints of caramel.
The oyster-shell limestone of Sancerre, called Kimmeridgian, forms the base soil beneath the tiny hamlet of Maimbray, located in a valley surrounded by chalk hills of Chavignol and Verdigny. Across 43 acres of this vital terroir, Pascal Reverdy and his wife Nathalie (alongside Nicolas’s widow Sophie) combine tradition with trajectory: Now, sons Victorien and Benjamin shore up the team. Having completed his DNO at Dijon, with stints at Armand Rousseau (Gevrey-Chambertin), Châteaux Léoville Las Cases (St Julien Beychevelle) and Christine Vernay (Condrieu), Victorien returned first in 2019. Benjamin reappeared in the summer 2023, having cut his teeth at Domaine de la Romanée Conti.
Victorien and Benjamin Reverdy, Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy
Pascal, who founded the winery in 1993, explains the family’s mandate: “We are about 70% planted with Sauvignon Blanc and 30% with Pinot Noir. Hard pruning keeps yields low, with vineyard being grassed through, and lutte raisonnée being practiced. Harvesting is by hand and we have built a reputation across white, red and rosé Sancerres, with no oak aging, as well as three special cuvées (Les Anges Lots, La Grande Rue and A Nicolas) which are barrel aged.”
3 Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy ‘Terre de Maimbray’, 2024 Reverdy Sancerre Rosé ($31)
The ‘Terre’ in the name is ‘blanche’—the ‘white earth’ of Sancerre’s classic terroir. From three acres of 30-year-old Pinot Noir grown in characteristic clay-limestone, direct-pressed and vinified in demi-muids (10%) and stainless-steel tanks (90%), the wine shows a bouquet of ripe strawberries and red grapefruit underpinned by earthy tones that still allows bright acidity to sparkle through.
In keeping with the theme of these selections—small production, family-owned hamlet wines—miniscule Sacy nestles near Crézancy and Bué; Karine Millet has taken over the family domain. Karine practices polyculture, the historical practice in Sancerre, where cow manure from the farm is used throughout the vineyards and sustainable viticulture, without herbicide or pesticide, is the rule of the day. Her vines average 30 years old, with some approaching half a century.
Karine Millet, Domaine de Sacy
“Our soil is all ‘Terres Blanches,'” Karine says. “This is a late-ripening terroir made of thick clay layers intertwined with flat, white limestone. It’s rich in fossils that have the particularity of whitening while drying in the sun. Terres Blanches terroir gives a strong aromatic concentration, tension and aging potential to the wines as well as a pronounced mineral character.”
4 Domaine de Sacy, 2024 Sancerre Rosé ($27)
100% Pinot Noir, fermented and aged in stainless steel. The salmon-colored wine shows enticing aromas of wild strawberries and the classic mineral backbone that typifies the wines of Sancerre.
*From ‘Our 25 Domaines of the Year,’ Guides des Vins 2020, Bettane+Desseauve:
“When you think of Sancerre, you absolutely have to mention Stéphane Riffault. Measure, attention and reflection forge high-flying and stylish cuvées; each reflecting the personality of its terroir. Everything here exudes excellence.”
When Stéphane Riffault took over Domaine Claude Riffault from his father Claude, he brought with him a tool kit earned in a number of contrasting appellations, having studied and trained with Olivier Leflaive in Burgundy and at Château Angélus in Bordeaux. This broader view informed the core, hands-on education he received from his father at the domain. Among the rather ‘un-Sancerre-like’ methods he brought to the estate was hand-harvesting and extensive sorting before the crush; Stéphane’s wife Benedicte leads the harvest team while Stéphane manages the sorting and press during harvest.
Meanwhile, among the conclusions at which he arrived on his own is that sustainability is key to the future. As such, all 33 of his vineyard acres are organic (Ecocert, 2016) and biodynamic (Biodyvin, 2021).
Stéphane Riffault, Domaine Claude Riffault
All good winemakers seem to be equal parts dirt-farmer and metaphysical philosopher, and Stéphane is no exception: “Being a winegrower and winemaker demands commitment, risk and continual self-questioning,” he maintains. “You have to know how to adapt in order to stay dynamic. Improvement requires perpetual movement, and what drives me is the creation of wines of texture; wines that are singular and true to themselves.”
Although most of the Riffault’s holdings are planted on the soft limestone soil called ‘Terres Blanches’, he farms a handful of parcels on caillottes and silex; thus, he has developed a keen understanding of the qualities that each unique terroir brings to an individual wine. He employs oak moderately to add length to his already-precise, site-expressive and highly delineated bottlings.
5 Domaine Claude Riffault, 2023 Sancerre Rosé ($40)
La Noue is a six-acre of Pinot Noir grown on clay limestone and marl. Divided into seven plots and ranging in age from 10 to 60 years old it is the source for both Riffault’s Noue Rouge and his rosé. In particular, the rosé is a combination of juice bled off the Sancerre Rouge after a 6-12 hour maceration combined with direct press Pinot Noir. Cherry and citrus dominate the nose, while ripe strawberry notes appear on the palate.
Claude Thomas continued to work old vines in Monts Damnés—Sancerre’s greatest vineyard site—until well into his seventies, just as he maintained his standards in the cellar with élevage in old foudres and unfiltered bottlings. He clung to traditions in the hope that his daughter and son-in-law would ultimately take the reins.
This finally happened when Jean-Paul Labaille quit his civil servant job and became a full-time vigneron—although for the previous ten vintages, he had taken his vacation during the harvest to be the assistant winemaker to Claude Thomas. Few changes have happened under the new guard, and the 27 acres of vineyards remain among the best in Chavignol, with a large proportion of old vines. The oldest barrels have been re-placed by newer, mostly second-hand barrels that are 2 to 3 years old. The goal at Thomas-Labaille has always been to avoid any oaky character, but to let the wine breathe as it evolves slowly on its lees.
Jean-Paul Labaille, Domaine Thomas-Labaille
Work in the vineyards still follows Claude Thomas’ time-honored techniques, though through necessity as much as through respect: Monts Damnés is too steep a slope to ever consider machine harvesting—now the norm in the appellation—but the site is so spectacular that it’s worth the trouble. Many of the vines are over 80 years old; a genuine rarity in Sancerre. Given such spectacular raw material it’s no wonder that the resulting wine remains sensational: Rich, fat, round, with layered aromas, and marathon finishes. These are not a typical bistro Sancerres, but graceful wines meant for aging.
6 Domaine Thomas-Labaille ‘Cuvée L’Authentique’, 2023 Sancerre Rosé ($31)
100% Pinot Noir from sustainably farmed vines grown on the famous limestone soils of Chavignol. Hand harvested and direct pressed natural-yeast fermentation and tank aging; the wine display ‘soil transparency’ with its limestone minerality alongside gooseberry, lime, fresh-cut grass and orange peel.
Biodynamics, low yields and Burgundian techniques have defined the Vacheron road map since cousins Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique Vacheron took over the estate. Having inherited some of the most coveted parcels in Sancerre, the cousins are vinifying parcels by terroir and treating Pinot Noir not as an afterthought, but a focus.
“Vacheron is primarily a ‘silex’ producer,” says Jean-Laurent. “ Silex flint is found primarily in the eastern part of the appellation (across the river in Pouilly Fumé) and almost all our holdings are on this hard minerally soil type. Flint produces vertical, long-aging Sancerre bottlings and our chief aim is to let this shine.”
Jean-Dominique & Jean-Laurent Vacheron, Domaine Vacheron (Hejvin)
The Vacheron cousins current farm 84 acres of Sauvignon Blanc and 27 acres of Pinot Noir. Having begun with vines in the incomparable Les Romains vineyard, they have begun acquiring vines in the most coveted lieux-dits in the appellation, including Guigne Chèvre, En Grands Champs, Paradis, and Chambrates.
Natural winemaking comes naturally, according to Jean-Dominique: “We are certified in both organic and biodynamic practices. No synthetic materials whatsoever are used in the vineyards; and we make our own organic compost. Wines are aged either in large oak cask or French oak barrels, depending on the vintage, and we bottle unfiltered according to the lunar cycle.”
Domaine Jean Vacheron, 2023 Sancerre Rosé ($57)
This direct-pressing of Pinot Noir grapes from vines between 30 and 50 years old planted on flint, clay and limestone soils displays the essence of elegant green citrus, sweet pink rose, passion fruit and fresh green herbs.
Established in 1895, with winegrower roots extending back to the 16th century, work in the Moreaux’s 22 acres has been handed down across many generations. Today, following the retirement of his father Roger, responsibility rests with Christophe Moreaux.
Located in the tiny hamlet of Chavignol (population 200) along the Upper Loire River where they are renowned equally for their wine and their cheese—Crottin de Chavignol has its own appellation. Wine, however, is the passion of Christophe, who says, “We believe we are in possession of some of Sancerre’s greatest terroirs, the vineyards of Les Monts Damnés and Les Bouffants.”
Christophe Moreaux, Domaine Roger & Christophe Moreux
Moreaux production is a scant 65,000 bottles per year, with about one quarter of it made from Pinot Noir, both red and rosé; it is fermented in stainless steel and aged for six to eight months before release.
Domaine Roger & Christophe Moreux ‘Cuvée des Lys’, 2023 Sancerre Rosé ($27)
Sourced from 40-year-old Pinot Noir vines grown on clay and limestone soils in the village of Chavignol. Made by the direct press method, fermentation and aging takes place in stainless steel to produce a crisp, fruit driven rosé filled with heady aromas of apricots, cherries, currants, and wild strawberries supported by vibrant acidity.
Having felt the pull of the soil, Phillipe Gilbert left his occupation as a successful playwright to take over the family estate in the hamlet of Faucards in the midst of Menetou-Salon. The vineyards are scattered throughout the heart of the appellation in prime sectors of the villages of Menetou-Salon, Vignoux, Parassy and Morogues where the soil is a classic mix of clay and limestone sitting on the famous Kimmeridgian basin.
Philippe Gilbert, Domaine Philippe Gilbert
With the assistance of his colleague, Jean-Philippe Louis, Philippe Gilbert has plunged headlong into the system of biodynamic viticulture and the domain is now certified as an organic producer.
Domaine Philippe Gilbert, 2023 Menetou-Salon Rosé ($33)
Produced from 100% Pinot Noir, this standout rosé is pressed directly and fermented spontaneously—a rare practice for the category, as most growers want to ensure market-demanded consistency. It spends six months in stainless steel tanks where it natural malolactic fermentation and develops an ethereal nose of raspberries and pink grapefruit behind the crunch of minerality and sizzling acidity.
Down the river-road from Sancerre sits Anjou, which (as its name may or may not imply) surrounds the French city of Angers. Although generic Anjou wines are not particularly well-known or prestigious, there are several noteworthy subregional AOPs like Saumur (known for fragrant Cabernet Franc), the crisp Chenin of Savennières and the sweet white nectars of Côteaux-du-Layon.
The appellation covers red, white and sparkling wines, but not still rosés. For the pinks, generally made from Gamay or Cabernet, there are separate appellation; Rosé-de-Loire and Cabernet d’Anjou, a medium-sweet rosé a blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The Soucherie château itself is an architectural gem, an 18th century castle with an outstanding view of the Layon valley. 20 minutes south of Angers in the heart of the Loire and surrounded by the villages of Rochefort-sur-Loire, Beaulieu-sur-Layon and Saint Lambert du Lattay, the 70 acres of south-facing vineyards are planted on limestone, clay and schist.
Vianney de Tastes, Château Soucherie
Owner Roger Beguinot is assisted by general manager, Vianney de Tastes, who sings the praises of organic ‘agriculture integrée,’ practiced through the domain’s single-vineyard sites, including the 70-year-old vines in Chaume: “All the work of the vineyards is done manually,” he says, “from stripping to budding, from tying to harvesting. For our sweet wines, the grapes are picked selectively, only 100% botrytis and chaptalized. Our white wines are vinified and aged in oak barrels where nothing is left to chance—the origin of the wood (Allier, Tronçais forest, Nièvre, etc.), and the expertise of the cooper is chosen in accordance with the type of wine and the nature of the soil.”
Cidre with a heart of gold, produced in the Cotentin Peninsula using artisanal techniques perfected by Maison Hérout since 1946—show the love by picking up a case, 12 of 330 ml bottles.
This is a good time for a shout out to our cidre importer Jon-David Headrick, whose rural Tennessee roots give him a particularly keen palate for apple cider while his many years in France have taught him how to uncork the best.
Maison Hérout ‘Amour’, IGP Cidre de Normandie – 4.5% abv – (330 ml)
This is the only non-AOP cidre made by Hérout; it includes fruit that originates just outside the appellation and is exclusively bottled in 330 ml bottles. The juice is aged in a tank and bottled after about four months. Organic and slightly off-dry with the second fermentation occurring in the bottle; the cidre has an appealing low alcohol content. It is redolent of ripe apples in pastry, with hints of orange citrus, forest floor, bitter coffee bean and apricot on the finish.
The Contenin Peninsula, part of the staging area for Operation Overlord (the codename of the Invasion of Normandy) pokes its nose far into the English Channel, and was chosen as a landing site for this very reason. Maison Hérout, known for producing some of the driest and most complex ciders made anywhere, has seen many such incursions—the Hérout family tree goes back to the Vikings, who settled in this area around the ninth and tenth centuries. In fact, many Cotentin village names in the still flaunt Norse roots, like the beautiful Briquebec and Quettetot.
Marie-Agnès Hérout, Maison Hérout
The Hérout estate is located near the town of Auvers, where apples thrive in a lush oceanic climate. The Hérout family began producing cider in the 1940s; today, Marie-Agnès Hérout has taken over the farm and remains true to her heritage by producing some of the finest ciders available from this region. After picking, the apples are grated, macerated, and then pressed with the help of a rack press dating back to 1920, whereupon the juice is left to ferment for four to seven months, often in used Calvados barrels.
Marie-Agnès also continues the family tradition of planting apple trees for future generations and in 2000, began a campaign with the Syndicat de Promotion du Cidre du Cotentin to earn the region’s certification for Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée Cotentin status. In May of 2016, after 16 years of hard work and perseverance, the quest succeeded.
Notebook …
Normandy, which most of us associate with the D-Day invasion of 1944, gets a failing grade in being French: They tend to love Americans. They also love apples, and harvest nearly half a million a year, many (but not all) destined to be transformed into Norman Cidre. Throughout the regions of Calvados, Eure, Manche, Orne and Seine-Maritime, cidre is king, although the menu also includes world-class apple juice, pectin jelly and phenomenal apple-based pastries. In the 9th century, Charlemagne ordered more apple trees to be planted in the region, which is too far north and too sunshine-challenged for grape cultivation.
The Norman apple harvest begins in mid-September, when ripe fruit begins to fall from trees naturally. More than 200 varieties of apples are legally permitted; the most common is the Frequin Rouge, followed by distinctive Michelin and Muscadet de Dieppe.
Keeving is Believing: Cidre relies on bittersweet and bittersharp apples rich in pectins and tannins and low in acid. As such, production tends to be a farmhouse undertaking and the art of cidre-making involves a filtering process known as keeving; keeving allows the natural pectin of the apples turn to a jelly-like consistency in cold temperatures over a week, where it rises to the top of the fermentation vessel as the heavy solids filter to the bottom of the tank and the jelly at the top. The remaining juice in the middle of the tank is then slowly fermented at cold temperatures with small quantities of yeast for 3-6 months.
The carbonation may be the result of a Champagne-like process or the artificial introduction of carbon dioxide at bottling.
Cidre de Normandie IGP was formalized in the year 2000; the cider must be made from apples, or a combination of apples and pears, each with its own profile and identity, giving cidre the same sort of unique varietal personality as wine has based on grapes.
Sweetness levels vary from dry to sweet (doux), and color from pale yellow to dark orange or rosé. There are also various technical specifications, including those regarding the types of apple or pear used. Tannin and acidity levels are also regulated. Many regulations vary depending on the category of fruit used, and the style of cider. Sweet ciders must have a minimum of 3.0 percent abv, while drier styles must reach 5.0 percent abv, or 5.5 percent for Cidre Bouché.
And then there is poiré, made from pears only; it differs from generic pear cider in that it’s made from designated varieties grown in Normandy. Pears are thought to have been grown here even before apple trees were cultivated.
Low in octane, effervescent, quaffable and refreshing, cidre offers a great alternative to beer for your outdoor summer tipple. At its most basic, it is fermented apple juice—you can make it yourself with a gallon from the orchard and a pinch of baker’s yeast. But like wine, it appears in multiple guises—tart, sweet, bitter, herbaceous, full of fireworks sparkles like a Roman candle or gently effervescent. The idea that cidre is one dimensional is not borne of experience, but of one-dimensional palates.
A plus for cidre’s place on the summertime table is its food-friendly versatility. Cidre’s acidity and tannin makes it the ideal foil for the grill or smoker—ribs, obviously (pork and apples have an innate affinity)—but virtually any sizzling, fatty cut of flesh will be complimented, and also roasted vegetables—the rootier the better. Cheese is another classic matchup for cidre, and Normandy is as known for its fromage as it is for its apples.
Once a standby in American taverns, the end of Prohibition in 1933 put a permanent dent in the American hard cider industry. Orchards were cut down and replaced by new varieties of sweet, table apples, and it was not until the 1990s that artisan cider makers began to rediscover their red, white and blue heritage.
Of course, France’s flag is also red, white and blue, and diverse cidres offered in this week’s package reflect the diversity from the most heralded ‘cidre centre’ in France; Normandy.
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Posted on 2025.05.14 in Sancerre, Touraine, Rosé de Loire, Anjou, Menetou-Salon, Cidre, France, Wine-Aid Packages, Loire