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In The Cradle of Malbec: Four Cahors Producers’ Wines Show Finesse and Elegance While Retaining Power (6-Bottle Pack $199)

Had ‘Steinbeck’ been ‘Malbec’, his grapes might have had less wrath. Forgive the awful pun, but within the world of Malbec, the more you take things seriously, the more perplexing the curve-ball seems to be. The mainstay of its natural home in Southwest France, Malbec found greener commercial pastures a hemisphere away in Argentina—a country that now produces ten times as much Malbec as Cahors. And in Malbec’s home field, land remains dirt cheap compared to much of French wine country; a hectare of land will go for $10,000 whereas in Burgundy, you could add a couple zeros to that figure and still come up short.

And yet, of Cahors’ 50,000 arable vineyard acres, four-fifths lie fallow.

This week’s six-bottle package highlights four remarkable producers who have helped Cahors rise above itself and a somewhat flagging reputation, which had suffered damage due to wars, frost and consumer tastes. They are vignerons who took a cue from Mendoza’s Malbec miracle and embraced a shift to consumer-friendly quality with improved viticultural practices and better cellar technique, including longer maturation and top-shelf French oak.

Climate change is also favoring modern Cahors, bringing to the limestone uplands greater vintage regularity. Marginal sites here may still produce acidic Malbec wines, even if picked into October, but the shifting tides of climate are greening up the pastures of Cahors.

The Southwest: France’s Hidden Corner

How France’s fifth-largest winegrowing region remains one of its least known (and mostly underappreciated) is another mystery. Tucked away between the Pyrenees mountains in the South, Bordeaux in the north and the Atlantic Ocean to the west, France’s ‘Hidden Corner’ has twice as many vineyards as Burgundy and boasts some of France’s most beautiful countryside with vineyards scattered across rolling fields and picturesque river valleys.

Roughly divided into four sub-regions, each area has its own personality and unique wine profile: Bergerac and Dordogne, which specializes in dry white blends, full-bodied reds and sweet dessert wines; the Pyrenees, known for rustic Tannat, the variety that dominates the area’s most renowned appellation, Madiran; Garonne and Tarn, famous more for breathtaking scenery that top shelf wine and Lot, home to the incomparable Malbec-based ‘Black Wines’ of Cahors.

Cahors: A ‘Lot’ Runs Through It

While the Colorado River was busy carving out the Grand Canyon, a similar, if slightly less dramatic geological phenomenon was happening in Southwest France, where the Lot River was at work creating the Lot Valley, where, instead of leaving behind a big hole, there are steeped terraces ideal for vine cultivation. The terroir of Cahors is loosely defined by the differing soil types and the exposures created by these terraces.

The Plateau, referred to ‘les Causses’, lies at an elevation of nearly a thousand feet; it contains the Kimmeridgian limestone also found in Chablis and parts of Champagne. In addition, this area holds layers of iron rich clays with sporadic patches of rare blue clay, lending structure and energy to the wines. Below that, the Fourth Terrace, at an average elevation of 788 feet, offers a mix of limestone scree and ancient alluvial soils from the river, creating wines with bright red fruit and rustic earthiness. The Third Terrace is closer to the river, and at an average elevation of 558 feet it is primarily composed of clay, sand and the famous ‘galets roulés’ which imbue the wines with bold, black fruit and supple tannins, adding roundness in the way that Merlot softens Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux.

Cahors vs. Argentina: The Expression of the Malbec Grape

Same grape, different day. When, in the mid-nineteenth century, French agronomist Miguel Pouget was hired by the governor of Mendoza to create a training program for winemakers in Argentina, he brought along 120 French varietals. Of them, one proved to be a first among equals.

In France, Malbec tends to be a problem child as it particularly susceptible to frost and dampness. In Argentina, growing Malbec proved to be almost too easy: By 1944, when Argentina had over 250,000 acres of vines planted, half of them were Malbec. At the time, the general population of the South American country preferred quaffable table wines, and a lot of Malbec wound up as a supplement to add color and aroma to native grapes, called ‘criollas.’

As tastes evolved, so did Malbec. Today, Argentine Malbec has smaller grapes and tighter bunches than the type grown in Cahors, and the flavor profile is markedly different. It turns out that Malbec enjoys the heat, and thrives on the unique minerals in Argentine soils as well as the cooling air flowing down from the snow-capped Andes Mountains. The wines are less ‘sledgehammer’ and more plummy and fruit-forward than their French counterparts, which tend to be austere and astringent in their youth, maturing to showcase a leathery, savory bitterness often highlighted by black pepper and spice.

And as the French are fond of saying, “Vive la différence.”


Domaine Cosse et Maisonneuve

Individually, their pedigrees are impressive: Matthieu, Domaine Cosse et Maisonneuve’s winemaker, is a graduate of the Institute of Enology in Bordeaux, and Catherine, the oenologist, holds a BTS viticulture and oenology from Blanquefort. Together, Matthieu and Catherine make magic. In 1999, they took over a 12-acre estate of old Malbec vines in Prayssac, a short distance from Cahors, and set out to make wines intended to transcend the rustic image of Cahors. Their first vintage was ‘Les Laquets’ and they shortly expanded the range to include separate cuvées intended to reflect the identity of the different terroirs of the estate.

Says Catherine: “Wine is the ambassador of a terroir and a winemaker is the interpreter. Thus, to obtain perfect grapes that will clearly express the qualities of the Cahors terroir, everything in the vineyard must be natural.”

As such, they are certified organic by Ecocert and farm their vineyards biodynamically with a plan to become Demeter certified as well. Everything done in the vineyard aims at building of balanced soils to produce optimal conditions for ripening the grapes and making harmonious, aromatically complex and precise wines. Today, Domaine Cosse et Maisonneuve totals 42 acres planted predominantly to Malbec, with small amounts of Merlot and Tannat. All plots are situated in primary locations on the gravel and clay Third Terrace above the Lot River.

Domaine Cosse et Maisonneuve ‘Les Laquets’, 2019 Cahors ($48)
A perfect representation of the Cosse et Maisonneuve style—elegant, complex and biodynamic, from vines that are over fifty years old. The palate is dense yet sleek, with notes of blackberry, fennel and iris. 2019 was an extraordinary vintage with superb aging potential.

 

 

 

 


Domaine Cosse et Maisonneuve ‘Solis’, 2018 Cahors ($16)
Cosse et Maisonneuve puts a new twist on the old school wines of Cahors, relishing in a style that is precise and elegant, smooth and aerial. Produced from a 25-acre plot in the commune of Mauroux from the ‘lightest’ section of the terrace dominated with gravel and alluvials, it was de-stemmed and vinified in vats to preserve its velvety character. It shows pure varietal aromas and flavors of blueberry and violet behind silky tannins, with hints of herbs in the finish. An exceptionally high-quality wine for the price, from some of the most meticulously farmed vineyards in the region.

 


Château du Cèdre

Founded in the 1950s by Belgian immigrant Léon Verhaeghe, the third-generation brothers Pascal and Jean-Marc now helm Château du Cèdre. Pascal trained in viticulture and winemaking at Jean-Marie Guffens and did a stint in Napa Valley, while Jean-Marc is a graduate of La Tour Blanche in Sauternes. Seeing the opportunity to bring synergy to the estate, Jean-Marc makes cultivating the vines his specialty while Pascal devotes himself to making, maturing, and marketing the wine. Over the past fifteen years, they have transformed the reputation of Château du Cèdre to near the top of the Cahors appellation.

Today, they are still pioneering, supported by an excellent team that includes Pascal’s sons Jules and Robin. The estate is situated in the village Vire-sur-Lot village; its vineyards cover the slopes of Bru, and these 60 acres reflect two distinct terroirs; the clay-limestone of Le Tran and the blend of red sands on a subsoil of shingles and silt. The vineyard is worked by hand and by machine but without chemical herbicide and fertilizer and each of the plot expresses the unique potential of Cahors Malbec.

Château du Cèdre ‘Le Cèdre’, 2016 Cahors ($61)
90% Malbec, 5% Merlot, 5% Tannat from organically grown grapes, this stunning Cahors is packed with lusciously ripe black fruits woven between bitter cocoa and tobacco. A beautifully structured wine with a persistent finish that accentuates the integrated tannins.

 

 

 

 


Château du Cèdre ‘Extra Libre’, 2019 Cahors – Natural ($33)
‘Extra Libre’ is a crimson blend of 97% Malbec and 3% Merlot, and extra-liberated it is: There are no added sulfites and no oak employed and the vineyards are organic. Big and bold with scents of sloe, blackberries and earthy spices. On the palate, it is smooth and rich with balanced tannins and a juicy acidity that leads to a lingering finish.

 

 

 


Château Ponzac

The Molinié family has been living in the village of Carnac-Rouffiac since the 14th century and as such, is inextricably linked to the local vineyards and winemaking traditions. So when (in 1998) Matthieu Molinié took over the estate with a freshly-earned degree in viticulture and oenology, it was yet another link in a daisy-chain of Cahors wine talent. His partner Virginie obtained the same diploma and joined him two years later.

The seventy-acre property is equidistant from the Atlantic and the Mediterranean and enjoys the best of this dual climate; oceanic until June, then becoming Mediterranean in July, allowing for diurnal shifts that guarantee the ideal balance between acidity and phenolic maturity. The estate grows both Malbec and Merlot, each capable of reflecting the region’s marly-limestone soil and reddish ferruginous clay. The couple is also assisted in fine-tuning the final cuvée by Pascal Verhaeghe of Château du Cèdre.

Château Ponzac, 2018 Cahors ($19)
100% Malbec grown on the chalky plateau of Carnac. The nose shows notes of fresh blackberries with candied fruits and spices. The massive tannic frame is girded by a mineral twang and some herbal notes. Densely textured and velvety, the wine shows savory tension all the way to the finish.

 

 

 

 

 


Clos Troteligotte

Clos Troteligotte roughly translates to “Land of the Doves,” and it is true symbolically as well as being a nod to local fauna. The wines from this spectacular ten-acre estate are a peace offering of sorts, uniting the old Cahors style with the new.

Emmanuel Rybinski is considered among the most forward-thinking vignerons in the appellation and his vineyards sit at strikingly high elevations—above the fog line, so that he manages to leapfrog the mildew that may decimate valley vines. Not only that, but he takes advantage of a terroir so rich in iron that the chunks scattered across his acres could be sold to a smelter. Rybinski lives a natural lifestyle, and is a man ‘of the vines and for the vines.’ Rows are plowed by horse and spaced tightly. In 2005, the operation was classified under ‘rational agriculture’ which corresponds to a holistic approach in the management of farms, and in January 2014, Clos Troteligotte became certified organic.

Clos Troteligotte ‘K-or’, 2018 Cahors – Natural ($23)
The wine first sees cold Maceration between 50 and 54 ° F for 5 days with no yeasts or enzymes followed by full body pigeage for 10 days, then a 30-day maceration period before being aged for 18 months in concrete vessels. The name references the regional word ‘knom’ to describe the best wine in the house; Emmanuel paints the K on the label bright red because he cherishes the blood-aroma he thinks this wine gives off upon opening.

We pick up more dusty black currant with briary raspberry notes throughout. Eminently quaffable, the acids are soft, enhancing K-nom’s drinkability. 15% Merlot, there is a faint saline undertone for which style is known.

 


NEW ARRIVAL

France’s Other Hidden Corner: Catalunya Nord

Ceded to France by the Treaty of the Pyrenees, Northern Catalonia—Catalunya Nord—is also known as ‘Pays Catalans’, but most of us are more familiar with the name ‘Roussillon.’ Often joined at the hip to the region of Languedoc, the area seems small on a map, yet one in every three appellation-designated French wines are produced here. Languedoc and Roussillon’s reputations have significantly improved in recent years—new talent attracted to lower land prices has helped fuel the area’s revival. Caryl Panman, co-owner and -manager of Château Rives-Blanques calls this new influx of innovative winemakers ‘neo-vignerons’, saying, “It is an El Dorado of wine, and some, some local growers are thinking big, leaving behind cooperatives and négociants to bottle their own wines.”

Emmanuel Cazes, wine ambassador at Maison Cazes in Rivesaltes, echoes the sentiment, calling Roussillon the ‘land of new opportunities.’ Once a major producer of sweet wines and high-crop, carbonic-macerated Carignan, Roussillon suffered a decline in sales in the 1990s, forcing producers to reflect and innovate. “We have several assets to help us move into premium wines: low crop, old vines, a hot and dry climate, terroir diversity,” says Cazes. “It was just a matter of finding inspiration and energy with a new generation of producers.”

Vin Doux Naturel: Hedonistic Semi-Sweet Wine, Naturally

Roussillon forms an amphitheater facing the sea, surrounded by three massifs and subdivided by three rivers. As a result, its terroir varies wildly, and to reflect this, the region houses 14 AOPs as well as two IGPs. 24 grape varieties are permitted.

Much of the appellation system reflects Roussillon’s history of sweet wines and today, Roussillon makes 80% of France’s Vins Doux Naturels (VDNs). These fortified sweet wines retain their natural sugars after fermentation is stopped by the addition of a spirit.

A noble history? In 1285, Arnau de Vilanova—a director of the University of Montpellier and doctor at the court of Majorca—discovered ‘mutage’, the basis of this unique style of wine. Similar to Port, VDNs are fortified with a neutral grape spirit to stop the yeast before fermentation is complete and all sugars have been converted into alcohol. The wines retain naturally occurring sugar that translates to sweetness on the palate. The final alcohol level varies depending on the regulations of the AOP, although most have a minimum required content of 15% alcohol-by-volume.

Amber Treasure

1974 Rivesaltes Ambré (Vignobles Terrassous)

Rivesaltes may not roll off the tongue (even of French wine enthusiasts) but it is the largest appellation for Vins Doux Naturels. Covering 68 villages of the Pyrénées-Orientales and nine of the Aude, three rivers—the Agly, the Têt and the Tech—criss-cross the land, creating hills and tiered terraces that span a range of soil types. Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Grenache Noir and Macabeu are the main varieties used in production of Rivesaltes VDNs, although Malvoisie can also be included. Rivesaltes Ambré can also incorporate Muscat, but the variety must not represent more than 20% of the blend.

Vignobles Terrassous is, quite simply, massive: It is a co-op comprised of 70 grower members who collectively farm nearly two thousand acres, some at elevations of a thousand feet. Based in the Aspres Hills, Terrassous terroir has cool nights and is subject to the fierce winds of a dry Mediterranean climate (Aspres means arid). Rocky, red clay, limestone and schist are the diverse soils making up Aspres.

Vignobles Terrassous, 1974 Rivesaltes Ambré ($129)
Beautifully-aged, 1974 Rivesaltes Ambré shows the sort of maturity that only Vin Doux Naturel displays; primarily made with Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabeu and Tourbat. This type of Vin Doux Naturel requires a minimum of two and a half years of oxidative aging, during which it gradually changes from a deep-golden yellow color which turns to orange; with additional age, it changes from amber and eventually to reddish-brown. Vintage 1974 is at its peak, showing fabulous aromas of sweet wood spice, fig, cigar and toffee.

 


 

 

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Posted on 2022.12.09 in Cahors, France, Wine-Aid Packages

 

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