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A Portrait of the Wine as a Grape: The Pure Expression of Alsace’s Varietals From the Iconic Domaine Weinbach in Six Grapes (7-Bottles Pack $234)

To distill the essence of Alsatian wine into a single, simplistic concept: ‘German varietals and French styles.’ Of course, nothing about wine is simple, and it’s a fact that Alsace produces some of the most complex wines of any region on earth. But the French/German connection is forged in history: These two European neighbors have struggled over possession of Alsace since 357 AD. This small slice of enological heaven is currently in France, on the west bank of the upper Rhine next to Germany and Switzerland, although it has switched hands four times since 1870 alone. So it’s no surprise that the cultural underpinnings of the region have one foot in France and the other in Germany, and that their food and wine traditions do the same. Culinary Alsace is an Alemannic and Frankish melting pot, with popular dishes including Baeckeoffe, Flammekueche, Choucroute, Cordon Bleu and Vol-au-vent.

The seven grapes legally allowed for wine production in Alsace are Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and—the only red wine produced in Alsace—Pinot Noir. Alsatian alchemy transforms these familiar stand-by varietals into rich, balanced, often ethereal incarnations—from intensely aromatic and crispy dry versions, to the mellow, sweet Vendange Tardive (late harvest) and Sélection de Grains Nobles, to the sparkling Crémant d’Alsace—a slightly sparkling wine produced with the traditional Champagne method of secondary fermentation inside the bottle.

So intense and beautiful are these wines that they frequently remind us of Cinderella: Varieties often plain and plebian while cleaning the hearth of other wine regions, but who don their full ball regalia in Alsace.

Alsace: A Geologist’s Dream

An Alsace cliché: ‘Walk 100 feet in any direction and you’ll find a totally different soil composition.’

The terroir of Alsace is, in fact, a mosaic of diversity; soils underlying the vineyards are a tapestry ranging from the schist and granite of the higher elevations (extending into the Vosges Mountains), to the limestone and chalk of the lower slopes, to the clay and gravel of the valley floors. However, it is the unique, reddish-colored sandstone of Alsace—known as Grès des Vosges—that may be most interesting. Vosges sandstone runs in a large, horizontal swath through the range just below the granite layer from which it is derived and atop a layer of coal. Grès des Vosges is hard, compact sandstone composed mainly of quartz and feldspar. Its pink-reddish color is due to the presence of decomposing iron (iron oxide, as also seen in red soils throughout the world) that occurred as a result of the slow cooling of large masses of magma as it hardened into granite.

Most of the wine-making villages in Alsace are built on four or five different formations in a juxtaposition of often-restrained parcels, providing a montage of uniquely abundant and diverse soils. These infinite variations are the very heart of the exceptional diversity found in the Vins d’Alsace.

Seven Grapes in Search of Terroir

As we’ve seen, geologic forces some 45 million years ago resulted in thousands of feet of downward drop of the broad rift valley through which the Rhine River now flows; the soils left by these tectonic machinations is a byzantine patchwork that can vary tremendously over a very short distance. These changes profoundly affect the suitability of each patch of ground for particular grape varieties.

Thus, Gewürztraminer is grown on the sandstone soils of the Kitterlé vineyard while profound Rieslings grown of the granitic soils of the Sommerberg, refined Sylvaners grown on the limestone of the Zotzenberg vineyard, and so on. So unique is each situation to each variety that, unlike most of France, the Alsace tradition is to label a wine with the grape variety rather than a geographic location, in bottles which, by law, are the distinctive tall, slender Flûte d’Alsace.


We are pleased to offer one bottle of each of the following seven wines for a package price of $234.

Domaine Weinbach

Alsatian Purity

Named after the little stream which runs through the property, Domaine Weinbach was first planted with vines in the 9th century and established as a winery by Capuchin friars in 1612. After being sold as national property during the French Revolution, it was acquired by the Faller brothers in 1898, who then left it to their son and nephew, Théo Faller. Following his death in 1979, his wife Colette and daughters Catherine and Laurence continued the family’s passion for the great wines of Alsace until the untimely deaths of Colette and Laurence. Since 2016, Catherine has led the estate winery with her sons, Eddy and Théo.

Domaine Weinbach owns 65 acres of vineyards in the Kaysersberg valley in the Haut-Rhin of Alsace at between 600 and 1300 feet above sea level. Vines are grown organically with a view to quality rather than quantity and grapes. Unlike most producers in Alsace, who purchase from négociants, Weinbach vinifies only estate grown grapes, and their aging philosophy is best described as passive, carried out in huge old oak foudres, a technique they believe allows each climat and each terroir (along with the other unique characteristics of grape and vintage) to shimmer through and produce elegant and sophisticated wines.


Muscat d’Alsace:  ‘Dry, Crisp and Intensely Fruity’

Ferociously aromatic Muscat is a good poster child grape for the region, but it turns out to be two varieties, not one. Muscat à Petits Grains, also called Muscat d’Alsace, is the older of the two (and one of the oldest varietals anywhere); it is the ‘noble’ variety used in the Grand Cru vineyards to produce aromatic, bone-dry blockbusters. Muscat Ottonnel is of much more recent origin and is said to have its origin in Loire. Either way, in terms of acreage, they are the small kids on the block. In total, the two Muscats cover a mere 3% of Alsace’s total viticultural area.

Muscat is generally the first variety harvested, in part because it must be picked early to retain its fresh, grapey aromatics. Ironically, though, even the most strongly scented Muscat wines are much less pronounced on the palate. Villages such as Voegtlinshoffen and Geuberschwihr, protected from the western rains, are known for the purity of the Muscat wines, which in the best vintages reach spectacular heights.

2018 Domaine Weinbach, Alsace Muscat ($41)
Organically farmed grapes from the monopole Clos de Capucins grown on sandy silt peppered with gravel. The wine is brilliant yellow in color and redolent of citrus fruit, lavender, jasmine and a hint of eau-de-vie; on the palate, the flavors of yellow plums, pineapple, white pepper and bergamot lead to a crisply dry and acidic finish.

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Pinot Blanc d’Alsace:  ‘Light, Supple and Spring-Like’

Pinot Blanc is often thought of as understudy to Chardonnay (especially in Burgundy, where it is still permitted in many Grand Cru vineyards), but it takes on the diva’s role in Alsace. It is the region’s favorite mutant, since it is a genetic anomaly that originated as Pinot Noir, but with a smaller concentration of color-producing anthocyanins. Alsace puts the grape to work in the production of still, sparkling and sweet dessert wines, although it is frequently overshadowed by more popular Alsatian gems made from Gewürztraminer and Riesling.

Pinot Blanc d’Alsace frequently displays toasted almond aromas with hints of pie spice; nutmeg especially. On the palate they show a range of creamy applesauce flavors, and may display some light mineral characteristics, although these are generally muted by the oak treatment that some Alsatian winemakers tend to favor.

2018 Domaine Weinbach, Alsace Pinot Blanc ($27)
Hand-picked, organically grown grapes from the Clos de Capucins climat (first planted in 1612—that is not a typo) and another plot in the Cuvée Laurence vineyard. And now for the odd news: This wine is 70% Auxerrois; a low acid, full-bodied variety most at home in Alsace where laws permit it to be used anonymously in wines labeled Pinot Blanc—to the extent that wines that are 100% Auxerrois may, in fact, be labeled Pinot Blanc without falling afoul of rules. In this wine, 30% is Pinot Blanc, and it shows intense, very ripe pear notes behind some butter and rum raisin balanced by lots of juicy acidity that resolves into a contrast of sweet honey and salty minerality.

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Riesling d’Alsace:  ‘Fresh, Elegant and Delicately Aromatic’

With little space for argument, the statement can be made that Alsace produces some of the most terroir-reflective Rieslings on earth, echoing precisely the mix of granite, limestone, schist and sandstone on which they are grown. The wine is rarely oaked and only produced in off-dry versions labeled Vendange Tardive (late harvest) or Sélection de Grains Nobles (from grapes affected by botrytis). In general, it is the most prolific grape among Alsatian vineyards, accounting for 22% of planted acreage average annual Riesling production is about 2.8 million cases by some 950 producers.

The wines are intensely linear, and have a distinctively complex acid structure and high concentration. Aromatic and expressive, they display intense aromas of citrus, peach, pear, white flowers and a steely minerality and are particularly well-suited to aging, where the fruit recedes and yields to aromas of beeswax, lanolin, butter, smoke, pine, honey, butterscotch, mushroom, lemon candy and especially, overtones of gasoline, which is more delectable than it sounds.

2019 Domaine Weinbach, Alsace Riesling ($35)
Built from organic and biodynamic grapes from the Kaysersberg valley where sandy silt soil lies atop well-drained granite pebbles; grapes from this terroir ripen early and produce wines with complex aromatics and a potent concentration. The wine is aged in large wooden vats which impart very little influence to the flavor, but serves to soften the acidic profile.

Mouth-coating and eye-opening, the wine shows concentrated dried apricot, ripe nectarine, lime zest, white flowers and a touch of petrol braced by crunchy minerality and verve on the nose.

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Sylvaner d’Alsace:  ‘Light with Discreet Fruitiness’

In ways, Sylvaner is the Sauvignon Blanc of Alsace; read a classic description and you’ll see: “Sylvaner’s color is clear with green hints underlining its characteristic freshness; the palate is approachable and delicate, framed around vivid acidity; the nose is delicate and appealing. The bouquet is subtly fruit and floral: citrus fruits, white flowers, freshly-cut grass.”

It is a variety whose origins are said to be Transylvania—do with that what you will. As in Germany, where it is well suited to Franken, the variety was once much more widely planted in Alsace, particularly on the natural-productive flatter, lower vineyards of the Bas-Rhin. Today Sylvaner is planted on about one-tenth of Alsace’s vineyard space and rarely occupies the better sites—although there are a few exceptionally good, characterful bottlings. Sylvaner’s primary plus is that it can boast relatively high acidity while the more common Pinot Blanc and the related Auxerrois can be dangerously low in the same.

2019 Domaine Weinbach, Alsace Sylvaner ($27)
Prior to the 2017 vintage, Weinbach’s only Sylvaner was labelled ‘Réserve’, based in part on its origins–old vines from the monopole vineyard Clos des Capucins. Biodynamically certified and vinified on ambient yeast, the wine is aged in old oak casks for eight to 10 months.

The age of the vines is demonstrated in the rich concentrated palate; herbal aromas of freshly mown grass and parching alum are perfectly balanced by a juicy, citrus-driven character with mineral freshness at the finish.

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Gewürtzaminer d’Alsace:  ‘Intense, Exuberant and Aromatic’

If ever a grape variety can be thought of as an ‘acquired taste’, it’s Gewürztraminer, whose unctuous, oily, often musky scent is (at least) easy to recognize. It is a white wine, although the grapes themselves are pink and impart a slight tint to the juice, making it a wine identifiable not only by bouquet, but by color alone.

Gewürz performs best on the heavier, clay soils of Alsace’s Haut-Rhin department, and can quite easily attain the sort of ripeness needed for the sensational late-harvest bottlings labeled Vendange Tardive and Sélection de Grains Nobles. That said, the variety ripens so fast it needs to be planted somewhere relatively cool if it is to develop any discernible perfume but must be harvested while acid levels remain high enough to balance sugars.

Picked judiciously, Alsace Gewürztraminer ‘sec’ is pungent, dry and powerful enough to accompany rich food, and reaches heights of complexity here unmatched anywhere else in the world.

2018 Domaine Weinbach, Alsace Gewürztraminer ($34)
From the organic and biodynamic (as certified by Ecocert & Demeter) vineyards of Clos des Capucins composed of sandy silt soil on granite pebbles, the wine is rich, velvety, rose-scented and exotic, showing lychee, star fruit, passion fruit and mango while complimenting these lush tropical fruit notes are a host of other aromatics—orange peel, roses, honey and baking spices.

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Pinot Gris d’Alsace:  ‘Generous, Ample and Full-Bodied’

Another mutation within the Pinot family, Pinot Gris is a sibling of Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, and perhaps among the most double-faced grapes on earth: It creates the light, crisp, often forgettable Pinot Grigios of northern Italy and (without undergoing any mutations whatsoever) becomes rich and unctuous in Alsace. Location, location, location… and restricted yields.

Most identifiable by ripe Bosch pear notes, in Alsace the grape also reveals a floral, flinty, smoky, spicy and honeyed profile, allowing winemakers revel in the possibilities.

“In the past, Grand Cru Alsace Pinot Gris was usually made in an off-dry or sweet style, but today, it is possible to make it in a dry style,” says Alsatian winemaker Samuel Tottoli. “For me, it is necessary to vinify it dry. Low yields from stony vineyards ensure the wine is concentrated, while prime sites with well-drained soils further promote ripening before too much sugar develops in the grapes.”

2020 Domaine Weinbach, ‘Clos des Capucins’ Alsace Pinot Gris ($42)
Grapes grown on the classic terroir of Clos des Capucins ripen early and produce wines with complex aromatics and a potent concentration. This one shows notes of ripe yellow peach, pear, apricot, candied citrus peel, melon rind and orange blossoms carry with a hint of residual sugar (less than 5 grams per liter), making it an ideal partner for spicier preparations.

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Alsace’s ‘Noble Blend’:  A Medley of Flavors

Although Alsace stands out from most wine regions in France by its diversity of single-varietal wines, it has always reserved an important part of its production for the development of blends, whether blends of wines or blends of grapes pressed and vinified together.

The term ‘Edelzwicker’ is commonly used to designate any blending of white AOP Alsace grape varieties, without specific requirements of percentage. The varieties can be vinified together or separately and a vintage year on labels is not obligatory. Initially called ‘Zwicker’ (blending), the prefix ‘Edel’ (meaning noble) was added to show how only noble grape varieties were chosen, and not any from large-scale producers.

‘Gentil’, a term equivalent to ‘noble’ in its oldest sense, is less famous. It is a blend of two or more AOP Alsace grape varieties and must contain a minimum of 50% of noble grape varieties such as Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Muscat. Unlike ‘Gentil’, Edelzwicker does not look for an Interprofessional Charter to define its production conditions. Gentil can only be sold after being tasted and approved.

2020 Domaine Weinbach, ‘Les Vignes du Prêcheur’ Alsace ($28)
A medley of co-fermented beauties—40% Riesling, 30% Auxerrois, 20% Pinot Gris, 5% Muscat, 5% Sylvaner. A seducing floral nose with touches of peach and apricot leads to a rich, yet silken mouth-feel on the backbone of crisp and elegant acidity—the finish displays the odd salinity that is present in many Alsace wines despite its land-locked situation. 13,160 bottles produced.

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A Note …

The Sugar Question: Sec Means Sec

“We’re not in favor of the change, especially for Riesling,” says Emanuelle Gallis of leading Alsace cooperative Cave de Turckheim. “But in the end, it’s not a catastrophe. It’s only one word—just another rule on top of all the others.”

That word is ‘sec’, meaning ‘dry’—a word which Alsace producers have been obliged to carry on the label of their dry wines since the 2016 vintage. This is the Association of Alsace Producers’ interpretation of a European Union law stipulating that one of four levels of sweetness should be carried on labels: sec, demi-sec, moelleux and doux; the AVA was concerned that consumers were turning away from Alsace wines because they were afraid of buying an off-dry or sweet wine when they wanted a dry one. “This has become particularly clear in Parisian brasseries,” says AVA president Jérôme Bauer, “where Alsace Rieslings are getting rarer.”

As a result of the new rule, dry Alsace wines must be labeled ‘sec’ if they have maximum four grams of residual sugar per liter—an INAO rule that had previously applied to all other French wine regions beside Alsace.  Although it seems like a logical decision, it has not been embraced willingly by all producers, some of whom feel it is misguided, as the default style of Alsace whites is mineral dryness rather than sweetness.


Vintage Journal

2018

The first half of 2018 was characterized by unusually high rainfall which allowed the soils to build important reserves for the upcoming summer months. Surprisingly, despite the heavy rains, flowering was not only successful but arrived earlier than normal. A warm, dry summer saw temperatures spike in July, making the few light rains that fell in August quite welcome. Although the grapes tended to ripen more quickly than normal, the harvest still occurred at a leisurely pace over two months. All the whites delivered impressively, particularly wines made from Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Blanc and Sylvaner. However, Pinot Gris generally stole the show with beautifully rich, aromatic wines. Riesling was perhaps the trickiest, less suited to the warmer temperatures, but October’s warm days and cool nights helped the grapes to ripen while retaining their acidity, creating superlative Vendanges Tardives.

2019

Overall, the 2019 vintage in Alsace was very good. Chilly spells during the spring were accompanied by the typical seasonal frosts in April. Temperatures began to warm up in May and hot weather in June and July eliminated both rot and mildew. Rain fell in August relieving the vines from drought and the good conditions continued for the September harvest. These conditions are ideal for offering grapes to develop concentration and depth without suffering drought-related stress.

2020

The 2020 growing season began with an unusually warm spring, which saw both an early budburst and flowering. The summer quickly picked up steam, but little rain—extremely hot conditions made drought a serious issue in some vineyards, as the delicate nature of Alsace white grapes means they are particularly sensitive to heat stress. There was enough intermittent rainfall to prevent the grapes from becoming completely parched, although the high temperatures inevitably sped up the growing season prompting an early harvest. Picking began in early autumn during a heatwave, which meant pickers had to be careful grapes were brought in under suitably cool conditions. Overall, despite the problems with drought, the harvest produced grapes in good condition, with their essential aromatics and acidities preserved.

 

 

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Posted on 2022.07.02 in France, Wine-Aid Packages, Alsace

 

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