Languedoc-Roussillon’s First Cru: A Tale of Two Fitou(s) (6-Bottle Wine-Pack $199, or 12-Bottle $369, All Included)

Nestling around a village called Fitou on the Mediterranean coast, Fitou is the oldest recognized appellation in the Languedoc-Roussillon and produces signature wines from a primary blend of Carignan and Grenache with each is equal to or greater than 20%. Complimentary grapes like Mourvèdre and Syrah may account for no less than 10% and up to 20% of the final wine, and the deciding factor is often the elevation of the vineyard. Like the nearby appellation of Corbières, the wines of Fitou are rich and rustic and famous for their herbal undertones and—especially in vineyards near the coast—a briny quality reminiscent of the sea. Recent innovations have raised the quality bar in the appellation, and today producers are making lighter wines of elegance and distinction.

Geographically and stylistically, Fitou is subdivided into two distinct zones: Fitou Montagneux, which snakes inland toward the schist-rich mountains and hosts vineyards at elevations between 300 and 1,300 feet and Fitou Maritime, closer to the sea and spreading across the flatter, limestone plateaus of the Mediterranean coast.

Both zones produce unique wines that represent their distinct terroirs and the winemaking philosophies of the producers. We are pleased to offer a selection of exceptional Fitou wines from top estates in each of these zones. 6-Bottle pack for $199 or 12-Bottle pack for $369, All Included

Fitou Montagneux

Domaine Bertrand-Bergé – (Jérôme & Sabine Bertrand)

Nowhere in Fitou is the depth of family history more celebrated than that at the estate of Domaine Bertrand-Bergé, where six generations have maintained the property for well over a century. Located between Languedoc and Roussillon, Domaine Bertrand-Bergé is established in Paziols, a charming small town in the Aude region. Current winemaker is Jérôme Bertrand; his great-grandfather Jean Sirven first began scoring points for the domaine’s wines at the 1900 World’s Fair in Paris. The modern era for Bertrand-Bergé started in 1993, when Jérôme and his wife Sabine took the winemaking excellence back into their own hands after a few decades of supplying grapes to the local co-operative. The wide range of soils and microclimates found in the region contribute much to the stellar quality of the wines, but of course it is the tireless effort of Jérôme Bertrand that translates the unique charm of this location into world-class wines. Jancis Robinson, the English wine writer, cites Bertrand-Bergé as an example of the “purity” possible in wines from Fitou.

“Cuvée Jean Sirven”, Fitou 2013 ($55) – 290 cases produced – (Carignan 45%, Syrah 45%, Grenache 10%): A sensory-surrounding old-vine masterpiece with bright blackberry jam and herbal garrigue; black cherries, figs, licorice and velvety tannins with a persistent finish. Broad on the palate and extremely aromatic, “Cuvée Jean Sirven” is capable of developing further over the next decade.

“La Boulière”, Fitou 2015 ($32.00) – 333 cases produced – (Mourvèdre 50%, Carignan 25%, Grenache 25%) Elegant old-vine cuvée showing dried cherries, figs, light tobacco; full-bodied, ultra-polished, layered and balanced package; much livelier than many Mourvèdre-based wines from nearby Bandol.

“Origines”, Fitou 2016 ($21.00) – 4,166 cases produced – (Carignan 60%, Grenache 40%) Showcasing the region’s signature blend, the late-harvesting Carignan offers a slight, characteristic bitterness with cranberry, red-cherry and raspberry acidity that vibrates to the finish.

Fitou Maritime

Mas de Caprices – (Mireille & Pierre Mann)

Mireille and Pierre Mann were born to tradition. As the children of Alsatian winemakers, they operated a successful restaurant in Colmar, Alsace, but in 2003, gave it up to return to their vinicultural roots. They established Mas de Caprices near the seaside resort of Leucate in the Corbières Maritimes. There, the combined forces of water and wind wreak both havoc and harmony throughout the vineyards, and the flavors of brine and garrigue—the coastal herbs that include both sage and lavender—show up in the wines.

Certified organic in 2009, their guiding philosophy is meticulous work in the vineyard while respecting nature with the goal of producing wines that are both expressions of their unique environment and utterly delectable.

“Retour aux Sources”, Fitou 2016 ($30) – 583 cases produced – (Carignan 45%, Lladoner Pelut 30%, Mourvèdre 25%): Carignan we know; Lladoner Pelut may be less familiar, even to wine fanatics. Believed to be a mutation of Grenache Noir, ‘pelut’ is French for ‘furry’ and makes a reference to the vine’s downy leaves, likely evolved to retain moisture and regulate transpiration. Roughly 70% of the wine is matured in concrete vats and the rest in old barrels, offering jammy fruit, excellent structure, and heady aromas of ripe blackberries and herbs, making a wine ideal for hearty vegetable dishes like ratatouille and olive tapenade.

“Ze Fitou”, Fitou 2016 ($24.00) – 925 cases produced – (Mourvèdre 48%, Carignan 40%, Grenache 12%) Fruit, both ripe and fresh, provides the foundation for this crowd-pleasing red. Maturation takes place for nine months, mainly in concrete vats, with around 20% aging in old barrels. Exceptionally floral on the nose, a sip seduces the palate with velvety tannins and silky berry salad. Pop a bottle for pizza, shawarma, or game night with friends.

“g Grenat”, Rivesaltes Grenat (Vin Doux Naturel) 2015 ($26), 375 ml – 258 cases produced – (Grenache Noir 100%) A naturally sweet wine produced by harvesting grapes at maximum ripeness, then macerating them without fermentation by the addition of neutral spirits. The wine is fresh and full of jellied fruit with a hint of cocoa, with just enough tannin and acidity to avoid being syrupy. It makes a fine dessert on its own or paired with dried fruit, salted nuts, chocolate and fresh cheeses.

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Posted on 2021.04.01 in France, Languedoc-Roussillon