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Leading Producer in Burgundy + Modest Appellation = Great Value

Domaine François Lumpp “A Vigne Rouge” (Givry Premier Cru, 2015)
Special 6-Pack Price: $297 (~$49/bottle)

For close to 30 years François Lumpp and his wife Isabelle have been leaders in the Côte Chalonnaise region of Givry, illustrating how meticulous attention to producing the highest quality fruit can create wines that rival some of the finest in the Côte de Beaune. Using cuttings of older bud wood (sélection massale) François developed his domaine around Givry’s best Premier Cru sites, emerging as a benchmark producer for this small region where quality aspirations are modest but can sometimes be memorably achieved.

Viticulture on this small domaine is always done manually with no use of synthetic products. Hand harvesting and sorting is done to ensure selection of the most quality fruit. Work in the cellar reflects the work in the vineyards. From vine cloning to bottling, everything at Domaine François Lumpp is done in order for the terroir of Givry to express itself. Aging takes place in oak barrels ranging from new to third-use for about a year. The wines are then bottled with respect to the lunar calendar.

The best examples of Givry can have substantial structure, depth, and complexity and can be expected to develop nicely in a proper cellar. The Premier Cru “A Vigne Rouge,” from a six acre plot of Oxfordian superior Nantoux limestone benches separated by thin marl on an ideally exposed and well-drained mid-slope, is clearly one of these. Notably ripe yet extraordinarily fresh, a glass emanates with aromas of crunchy cranberry, redcurrant, and an earthy spice.

In an interview with Allen Meadows, François describes the 2015 vintage as “an extremely hot yet somewhat curious vintage in that it’s one that could make you think that the wines lack acidity or would be top heavy but they’re not at all. I believe the reason is that while it was certainly hot, temperatures never got too hot for too long. Moreover, even though there was very little malic acidity there was almost as much tartaric as we had in 2014, which nobody describes as being too ripe or lacking acidity. As usual, it isn’t the technical figures of alcohol and acidity that really count as the most important criterion is how the wines taste. This is why the vintage is somewhat curious because the 2015s are so fresh that it’s almost difficult to reconcile the growing season conditions and supposedly less than ideal acidities with how vibrant the wines taste. We chose to begin picking on the 31st of Augustand brought in a super clean and reasonably abundant crop of around 40 hl/ha in pinot that averaged right at 13.5% in terms of potential alcohols. The fruit, in both chardonnay and pinot, had very thick skins and this imparted plenty of concentration and you can easily taste it as both the reds and whites have dense textures. The whites should be accessible young and while the reds should also be approachable young they should also age very well for those who wish to hold them.”


 

More Wines from Domaine François Lumpp

 

“Crausot” (Givry Premier Cru, 2015) Red
Special 6-Pack Price: $297 (~$49/bottle)

From a 2.2 acre plot of 25-year-old Pinot Noir vines growing out of Oxfordian Nantoux limestone, fine marl and clay. The vines see ideal southern sun exposure at 905 feet above sea level. Rich, hearty, and intense, this is a broad-shouldered wine with plenty of power beneath nuanced fragrance.

 

“Crausot” (Givry Premier Cru, 2015) White
Special 6-Pack Price: $297 (~$49/bottle)

From a 1.5 acre plot of 25-year-old Chardonnay vines growing out of Bathonian, Oolitic, and Sublithographic limestone, and clay. The vines see southeastern sun exposure at 932 feet above sea level. Orchard fruits give way to citrus and flowers. Ripe, fresh, and elegant with loads of complexity and a lengthy finish.

 

“Clos des Vignes Rondes” (Givry 2015) White
Special 6-Pack Price: $248 (~$41/bottle)

From a 1.4 acre plot of 35-year-old Chardonnay vines growing out of Bathonian, Oolitic, and Sublithographic limestone, and clay. The vines see southeastern sun exposure at 1148 feet above sea level. Given the slightly higher elevation it makes sense that green apple shows a bit more dominant among the lemon and floral aspects. Lovely mineral finish.

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Posted on 2018.02.14 in Burgundy, France, Saturday Sips

 

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