The Champagne Society – June 2017 Selection: Champagne Larmandier-Bernier

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier “Rosé de Saignée” Extra Brut (Premier Cru)
Price for The Champagne Society members: $84 (regular price $99)

The Champagne Society June 2017 selection is from Champagne Larmandier-Bernier, the same producer that crafted the beautiful cuvée “Longitude” Extra Brut from April’s selection.

Why did we decide to feature the same producer twice in a row? Glad you asked.

First, we are pleased to be able to offer the wines from this producer once again. For a long while they were not available in Michigan and their return coincides with the height of their winemaking talent. Second, this is a wholly different Champagne from the all Chardonnay based cuvée “Longitude” and a fairly unique Champagne to boot.

Cuvée “Rosé de Saignée” Extra Brut is made solely from a single-vineyard planted with old vine Pinot Noir. The east-facing plot holds 45-50 year old vines. Unlike most rosé Champagne that is fermented as a white wine and then blended with a bit of red still wine, the saignée method has the juice macerating on the skins for two or three days to give the wine its deep color as well as its penetrating style.

Indeed, this Champagne lands somewhere between a graceful Champagne, with all the expression of it’s renowned real estate in the Côte des Blancs, and the power of a mineral red cherry Pinot Noir. On top of all this, while technically a non-vintage Champagne due to the time it has spent in the cellar, this bottling of Cuvée “Rosé de Saignée” is entirely from the 2013 vintage, with disgorgement on January of 2016.

Biodynamically certified since 2004, Pierre Larmandier describes himself as an “organo-realist,” as one must be cultivating vines in this most northern of production zones. Naturally moderate yields and site-specific indigenous yeast fermentation allows Pierre to extract the character of each vineyard parcel. A light but measured hand in the cellar preserves that character in the bottle.

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Posted on 2017.06.01 in France, The Champagne Society, Champagne  |  Read more...

 

2014 Bordeaux PART III, Red & White Pessac-Léognan & Sauternes

This Saturday we will be continuing our tasting series of the excellent 2014 vintage in Bordeaux. Our third shipment takes us across the Gironde Estuary to the “Left Bank” of Bordeaux, home to all of the official 1855 classed-growth wines.

While this tasting will mainly focus on the Cabernet Sauvignon-based blends of Pessac-Léognan, we will also be featuring a classic dry white Bordeaux blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc priced for every day drinking, and the world famous dessert wines from Sauternes.

We’ll have an assortment of wines open to taste this Saturday. All bottle prices are deeply discounted and based on the purchase of six or more bottles.

Although Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate ratings don’t factor into how we select the wines we carry, we do understand that many drinkers find them useful. You’ll see the ratings for the 2014 vintage of each wine following the text.

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White

~$18 Clos des Lunes “Lune d’Argent” (Bordeaux) SOLD OUT
Founded by Olivier Bernard, the owner of Domaine de Chevalier and Château Guiraud. Olivier’s son, Hugo Bernard, is currently managing Clos des Lunes. (90)

~$25 Clos Floridène (Graves) SOLD OUT
Until very recently, the estate was managed by Denis Dubourdieu, Professor of Enology at Bordeaux University and one of the greatest exponents of White Bordeaux. (89-91)

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Sauternes

~$19 Château Bastor Lamontagne (Sauternes) 375ml
Recently purchased by the Cathiard family, who also own Château Smith Haut Lafitte in Pessac-Léognan and Château Beauregard in Pomerol. (90-92)

~$30 Château Guiraud (Sauternes Premier Cru Classé) 375ml
Owned by a dream team of respected Bordeaux producers including Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier and Stephan Von Neipperg of Château Canon-la-Gaffelière and La Mondotte. (93-95)

~$40 Château Rieussec (Sauternes Premier Cru Classé) 375ml SOLD OUT
Extending across the commune of Sauternes, with both Château d’Yquem and Château de Fargues as neighbors. Château Rieussec is clearly endowed with great terroir. (95-97)

~$40 Château Suduiraut (Sauternes Premier Cru Classé) 375ml SOLD OUT
Owned and operated by a group with several other Bordeaux wine properties including the renowned Château Pichon Baron in Pauillac and Château Petit-Village in Pomerol. (95-97)

~$43 Château Climens (Barsac Premier Cru Classé) 375ml
One of the most popular producers of Sauternes wines. Owned by Lucien Lurton of Château Brane-Cantenac and managed by his daughter Bérénice Lurton. (94-96)

 

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Pessac-Léognan

~$25 Château Brown SOLD OUT
Led by the well-established Bordeaux family of Mau since 2004. From the start the family have focused their efforts on improving the wine produced by Chateau Brown with the help of famed wine consultant, Stéphane Derenoncourt. (91)

~$27 Château Haut-Bergey (Grand Cru Classé) SOLD OUT
Purchased in 1991 by Sylviane Garcin-Cathiard, sister to Daniel Cathiard, the owner of Smith Haut Lafitte. The family-managed estate and all of its wine making facilities were renovated and modernized in 2001. (89-91)

~$36 Château Latour-Martillac (Grand Cru Classé)
For most of the last Century until today Château Latour-Martillac has been run by generations of the Kressman family. (91)

~$37 Château de Fieuzal (Grand Cru Classé)
Purchased by Lochlann Quinn in 2001, Château de Fieuzal underwent a multi-million dollar renovation in 2012. The wine making facilities have been completely modernized to allow for parcel by parcel vinification. (90+)

~$49 Château Malartic-Lagravière (Grand Cru Classé)
Purchased by the Bonnie family in 1997 and completely modernized in 1998, Château Malartic-Lagravière uses sustainable cultivation techniques and was one of the first major estates in the region to use gravity to move the wine in the cellars. (92)

~$62 Domaine de Chevalier (Grand Cru Classé) (93)
~$110 Domaine de Chevalier (Grand Cru Classé) White (95) SOLD OUT
One of the few Graves estates to produce both world class red and white wines. Owned and operated by the Bernard family, originally from Cognac, with Stéphane Derenoncourt, of La Mondotte fame, as consultant winemaker.

$102 Château Smith Haut Lafitte (Grand Cru Classé)
Since purchasing Smith Haut Lafitte in 1990, owners Daniel and Florence Cathiard have modernized and implemented techniques to bring the estate into the top tier of all Bordeaux. (93)

~$110 Château Haut-Bailly (Grand Cru Classé)
The modern era for Château Haut-Bailly began in 2000 when the cellars were completely renovated and modernized. The estate is managed by Veronique Sanders, the fourth generation of her family associated with Haut-Bailly. (94)

~$110 Château Pape Clément (Grand Cru Classé)
Owned and operated by the same family for the past eight decades. Today it is French wine magnate Bernard Magrez at the helm, continuing Pape Clément’s reputation for excellence. (94)

~$66 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion (Second Wine) (88)
$289 Château la Mission Haut-Brion (Grand Cru Classé) (95) SOLD OUT
Owned and managed by the same group that owns Château Haut-Brion. La Mission Haut-Brion is widely considered the greatest estate in Graves behind Château Haut-Brion.

$136 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion (Second Wine) (91)
$544 Château Haut-Brion (Premier Grand Cru Classé/First Growth) (96) SOLD OUT
Out of all the great wines from the Classification of 1855, Château Haut-Brion is the only one from outside the Médoc region. This estate represents wines that are the pinnacle of Bordeaux, and the world.

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Posted on 2017.05.26 in France, Bordeaux, Saturday Sips Wines  |  Read more...

 

Inexpensive Party Wines for Memorial Day Weekend

Memorial Day weekend is the unofficial start of summer. Tis’ the season of backyard barbecues, hanging out on the patio, picnics in the park, and any excuse you can find to enjoy the outdoors with friends, family, and wine.

While Elie Wine Co. is known for offering many of the great wines of Europe, we are just as proud of our selection of wines meant for everyday drinking. No matter the price, we always select wines with a sense of place.

While this is certainly the time of year when white and rosé wines shine, it’s not only color that should guide your choice of warm-weather wine. All of the reds on offer this weekend are chosen specifically for their freshness, energy, and their ability to take a bit of chill. Reds that are ideal for pairing with most anything off the grill.

All bottle prices are deeply discounted this Saturday only and based on the purchase of six or more bottles.

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Corte Gardoni “Mael” (Bianco di Custoza 2014) White
~$14/bottle SOLD OUT

Among the areas most respected growers, the Piccoli family has owned vineyards in the Veneto region of Italy for Centuries. Today the family cultivates around 60 acres of vines, along with olive and apple orchards. “Mael” is the house standard-bearer, a Custoza that explores the great potential of this appellation for yielding crisp, aromatic wines that are also rich and full on the palate. 40% Garganega, 20% Trebbiano, 20% Trebbianello, and 20% Riesling results in intense notes of citrus and blossoms with a lengthy finish.

Corte Gardoni “Pràdicà” (Bardolino Superiore 2013) Red
~$14/bottle SOLD OUT

If you’re familiar with Amarone, one of Italy’s top wines, you already have an idea of what’s in a bottle of Corte Gardoni Pràdicà. It’s produced from the same grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara. With terroir near the southern reaches of Lake Garda in a chain of morainic hills in the province of Verona, this wine has many of the fruit characteristics of Amarone without the weight. Its spicy, cherry licorice vibe is a lovely counterpoint to its juicy finish. This is a fantastic value that ought to pair with just about everything you might want to include in a Memorial Day spread.

Pardevalles “Albarín Blanco” (Tierra de León 2015) White
~$15/bottle SOLD OUT

The Alonso family of Pardevalles is one of the pioneer winemakers of southern León. Their vineyards and 300 year old cellars are near the town of Valdevimbre at around 2,400 feet in elevation. Pardevalles’ seven acres of Albarín Blanco were planted in 2004 for the purpose of recovering this indigenous grape which was on the edge of extinction. But the wine is far more than a rescue mission for an obscure variety. The Albarín Blanco is an exuberant wine brimming with tropical fruits and a clean, citric finish. Drinking a bottle will instantly transport you somewhere with palm trees and beachside cafés.

Coto de Gomariz “The Flower and the Bee” Sousón (Ribeiro 2014) Red
~$17/bottle SOLD OUT

The small Bodega of Coto de Gomariz is located in Galicia, in the Avia valley of the Ribeiro wine district. Although this northwest corner of Spain is mostly known for creating some of the country’s best white wines, there are some stunningly swiggable reds being produced there as well. Winemaker Xosé Lois Sebio is one of the most admired and exciting names in Ribeiro. He employs both organic and biodynamic viticulture practices in the vineyards. This miniscule production red, from the native variety, Sousón, is full of ripe dark berry aromas with a pinch of herbs and spice and a bright finish.

Domaine de la Cadette “La Piècette” (Bourgogne Vézelay 2015) White
~$25/bottle SOLD OUT

Jean and Catherine Montanet are leading a quiet, peaceful revolution in Vézelay. This part of Burgundy has been producing wines for centuries but it was just recently in 1997 that it was awarded appellation status for Chardonnay-based wines. Although this terroir is a geographic appendage of Chablis, the soils are not exactly the same, and although the climate is slightly cooler, the vines enjoy great sun exposure, lending a balance between generous fruit and deep mineral structure. “La Piècette” is 100% Chardonnay from clay and limestone soils aged for up to 12 months in barrel.

Maxime Magnon “Rozeta” (Corbières 2015) Red
~$31/bottle

Native Burgundian Maxime Magnon is reclaiming old-vine plots in high-altitude vineyards in the Languedoc region of southern France to produce wines that not only speak of the land from where they come but also made in a way that emphasizes purity of the fruit and immediate drinkability. Maxime cultivates his vines with respect for nature and the soil – although what stands for soil there is mostly just pure rock and Mediterranean shrubland (garrigue). The 2015 Rozeta is a blend of old vine Carignan, Grenache, and Cinsault. It is full of bright red fruits and floral aromatics, with a crunchy backbone to balance it all out. Its medium body makes it ideal for pairing with lighter protein, pork chops for instance, while the energetic finish will buoy a plate of roasted root vegetables.

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Posted on 2017.05.25 in France, Saturday Sips Wines, Misc Spanish, Spain DO, Burgundy, Italy, Languedoc-Roussillon, Veneto, Ribeiro  |  Read more...

 

Mother’s Day Special: Crowd-Pleasers from Italy’s Abruzzo & Spanish Sparkling Rosé

It’s amazing to watch Cristiana Tiberio’s star rising so fast. She has only been fully responsible for the winemaking at her family’s 74 acre estate in the Cugnoli area of Pescarese (one of the four zones of Abruzzo) since 2011. Yet she is already mentioned among the top producers of the region, consistently being awarded the coveted “Tre Bicchieri” (Three Glasses) by Gambero Rosso, the world’s leading authority on Italian wine. Indeed, Not only was her 2015 Pecorino given this honor, it was also deemed Gambero Rosso’s best value of all Italian wines for the current annual edition.

You can read a bit more detail on Azienda Agricola Tiberio from when we featured, and quickly sold out of, Cristiana’s wines last year. While Cristiana Tiberio is rapidly approaching cult status, for now the prices remain reasonable given the quality and clarity of her wines.

All bottle prices are based on the purchase of six or more bottles.

 

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo (2016)
~$22/bottle SOLD OUT

Don’t call it a rosé. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is an official denomination and appellation to cover the cherry-red (Cerasuolo roughly translated means cherry-like), brightly flavored wines of Abruzzo made from the free-run juice of the Montepulciano grape with a short maceration prior to fermentation apart from the grape skins. Cristiana’s Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is rich and fleshy, with aromatics of flowers and orange peel, ripe raspberry flavors, lip-smacking acidity, noticeable structure, and a lengthy finish. While light in color, it’s a big enough wine to handle Abruzzo’s traditional grilled lamb (Arrosticini Abruzzesi) yet light enough for porch sipping. And we’ve tested it for both.

 

Pecorino (2015) white
~$24/bottle SOLD OUT

Despite its name, there is no direct link between the Pecorino grape and Pecorino cheese. According to local legend, Pecorino gets its name from the sheep (pecora) who would snack on the grapes in the vineyards. The variety was thought to be extinct until it was found growing wild just north of Abruzzo in Marche and began a revival in the 1980s. Tiberio’s seven acres of Pecorino vines are planted on 20 foot deep limestone soils over clay and compacted sand and are some of the oldest in the region. The vines are naturally low yielding with a high total acidity so the wine shows a thrilling combination of rich texture and energy, green grass, flowers, salt, stone, and sunshine.

 

“Fonte Canale” (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2015) white
~$43/bottle

The foremost wine of the Tiberio offerings from a six acre plot of Trebbiano vines with an average age of 60 years. Tiberio’s Trebbiano Abruzzese vines are especially noteworthy as they are not just amongst the oldest in Abruzzo but because true Trebbiano Abruzzese is rare. Much of Abruzzo’s vineyards are actually planted to Bombino Bianco, Mostosa, and Trebbiano Toscano which were until very recently routinely confused with Trebbiano Abruzzese. While the four share similar features, they are distinct varieties. Trebbiano Abruzzese is the most noble of the four, producing wines that while delicate and light bodied have greater depth and complexity. Many have likened “Fonte Canale” to a Grand Cru Chablis with its stony citrus characteristics. While the comparison is flattering, Cristiana would rather you think of it as a great Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. This wine should develop in a proper cellar for a decade or more.

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You’ll Never Tire of Drinking this Sparkling Rosé from One of the Top Producers in Spain

 

Raventós i Blanc “de Nit” (cru Conca del Riu Anoia 2014)
Special 6-pack price: $162 ($27/bottle) SOLD OUT

Perhaps the most respected sparkling wine producer in all of Spain, Raventós i Blanc is a family operation led by Manuel Raventós and his son Pepe Raventós. Much like the best producers in Champagne, the pair throw heart and soul into creating world-class sparkling wines that express the distinct qualities of the exceptional microclimate and soils of their small Penedès subzone of Conca del Riu Anoia. Indeed, they believe so much in the excellence of this “cru” that they were one of the first of the renowned producers to leave the Cava appellation for not being restrictive enough in terms of quality and geography. They are currently seeking appellation status for Conca del Riu Anoia so as to convey its viticultural traditions and the strength of its terroir.

Biodynamically farmed and rivaling many a grower Champagne in quality terms, “de Nit” is a blend of Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada with the addition of a small amount of red Monastrell for complexity and to give the wine its pale pink color. Aged for at least 18 months on the lees before release this is a wine of balance, with subtle minerality. Creamy, with aromatics of flowers, orchard fruits, and almonds, we suggest drinking this sparkling wine from a white wine glass to experience everything it has to offer.

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Posted on 2017.05.11 in Saturday Sips Wines, Spain DO, Italy, Abruzzo  |  Read more...

 

2014 Bordeaux PART II, Saint-Émilion – From Every Day to Grand Vin

This Saturday we will be continuing our tasting series of the excellent 2014 vintage in Bordeaux. Our second shipment stays focused on the Merlot-based wines of the Right Bank, specifically the wines of Saint-Émilion. These wines represent every day drinking to Premier Grand Cru Classé wines capable of decades long cellar development.

We’ll have an assortment of wines open to taste this Saturday. All bottle prices are deeply discounted and based on the purchase of six or more bottles.

Although Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate ratings don’t factor into how we select the wines we carry, we do understand that many drinkers find them useful. You’ll see the ratings for the 2014 vintage of each wine following the text.

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 Castillon

~$25 Château Joanin Becot
Purchased by the Becot family in 2001, the name Joanin is actually a unique “lieu-dit” or vineyard situated on clay and limestone soils at some of the highest elevations along the Gironde. (89-91)

~$25 Château Montlandrie SOLD OUT
An ample wine from perfectionist proprietor Denis Durantou, known for his celebrated Pomerol estate Château l’Eglise Clinet. (89-91)

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 Saint-Émilion

~$22 Château de Fonbel (Grand Cru) SOLD OUT
Managed by Pauline Vauthier. The vineyard is located at the bottom of a slope, not too far from the venerable Château Ausone, which is also owned by the Vauthier family. (88-90)

~$30 Château Fonroque (Grand Cru)
Managed by Alain Moueix, who also runs Château Mazeyres in Pomerol (a hit at last Saturday’s tasting). One of the few Bordeaux estates that is 100% biodynamic. (91-93)

~$31 Château Grand Corbin-Despagne (Grand Cru) SOLD OUT
One of the rare Bordeaux estates to have remained in the hands of the same family for over two centuries. Today it is managed by François Despagne, the 7th generation of his family to take charge of the property. (90-92)

~$33 Château Quintus “Le Dragon de Quintus” (Grand Cru)
Previously known as Château Tertre-Daugay, the Quintus estate is owned and operated by Count Léo de Malet Roquefort, who also owns Château Haut Brion and Château La Mission Haut Brion. (87-89)

~$35 Clos La Madeleine (Grand Cru Classé)
With recent extensive improvements, including a new vat house and barrel aging cellars constructed in deep limestone quarries, Clos La Madeleine is an estate on the rise. (89-91)

~$40 Château Faugères (Grand Cru Classé)
A recent complete renovation of the wine making facilities makes Silvio Denz’s Château Faugeres one of the most modern estates in the Right Bank. (91-93)

~$40 Château Rol Valentin (Grand Cru)
About 40% of Château Rol Valentin’s vines are placed on sandy soils, north of Château La Gomerie on the way to Château Cheval Blanc. The remaining 60% are planted in the cooler, clay and limestone soils near Château Faugères. (89-91)

~$42 Château Valandraud “Virginie de Valandraud” (Grand Cru)
The second wine of Château Valandraud. This estate is recognized as giving birth to the “Garage Wine” movement, although today they utilize modern cellars and cultivate almost 25 acres of vineyards. (90-92)

~$43 Château Grand Mayne (Grand Cru Classé)
An estate with centuries of wine production history. Today it is run by the Nony family with the help of wine consultant Louis Mitjaville, best known for his work at top tier Saint-Émilion estate Château Le Tertre Rôteboeuf. (91 – 93)

~$65 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot (Premier Grand Cru Classé B)
One of the leading Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘B’ properties in Saint-Émilion thanks to modern era improvements to the estate and the consultation of Michel Rolland. (91 – 93)

~$70 Château Larcis Ducasse (Premier Grand Cru Classé B)
With vines abutting the famed estate of Château Pavie, Larcis Ducasse has both prime terroir and the knowledge of dynamic consulting duo Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt. (91 – 93)

~$81 Château Pavie-Macquin (Premier Grand Cru Classé B) 
This estate takes part of its name from visionary Albert Macquin who deserves much of the credit for solving the phylloxera epidemic. Today it is Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt operating this estate at the highest levels. (91-93)

$102 Clos Fourtet (Premier Grand Cru Classé B)
Erected during the Middle Ages as a defensive fort, the property is situated opposite the main entrance to the old town of Saint-Émilion. Currently the estate is owned by Philippe Cuvelier, also owner of Château Poujeaux. (94)

~$212 Château Ausone “Chapelle d’Ausone” (Grand Cru)
The second wine from the venerable Château Ausone. With some of the finest terroir in all of Bordeaux, Ausone is currently operating at the very peak of its form. (90 – 92)

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Posted on 2017.05.05 in France, Bordeaux  |  Read more...

 

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